Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :blink:

Actually don't know anyone who has had a problem with one yet.... couple of high profile cars in NZ have been running them hard fine. Don't know much about that particular unit however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229946
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229985
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

my power goal is around about 260-280rwkws i already have a cast iron T4 flange HKS manifold with a HKS 50mm waste gate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230677
Share on other sites

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :)

???

do you think Master Power turbos are cheap or something?

Master Power was founded in 1966 by Nelson Borghetti. Old skool rally cars used their turbos, they are NOt your average chinese copy made in taiwan crap cast turbos.

You are mis informed R31nismoid

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230745
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230934
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

cool sounds good thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3231046
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...