Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :blink:

Actually don't know anyone who has had a problem with one yet.... couple of high profile cars in NZ have been running them hard fine. Don't know much about that particular unit however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229946
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229985
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

my power goal is around about 260-280rwkws i already have a cast iron T4 flange HKS manifold with a HKS 50mm waste gate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230677
Share on other sites

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :)

???

do you think Master Power turbos are cheap or something?

Master Power was founded in 1966 by Nelson Borghetti. Old skool rally cars used their turbos, they are NOt your average chinese copy made in taiwan crap cast turbos.

You are mis informed R31nismoid

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230745
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230934
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

cool sounds good thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3231046
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...