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Hey people, I’m begging somebody, ANYBODY, please HELP ME!!! I know there is a lot of reading but I really am at my wicks end with this and I’m desperate to get it back on the road. Over the past 3 weeks I have been putting on a new turbo setup (HKS 3037). It’s been one small issue after another (as these things normally are) and that combined with my busy schedule has meant it’s taken a lot longer than anticipated.

Last night I was able to put the finishing touches on it after work (I got home at 8, boo for working in the city!) and I go to turn it on and my battery (admittedly it is quite old and on its last legs) is dead. So I charge the battery over night and plan to get up early today to start the car, leaving it idol for 30 mins or so in order to flow oil/water through all the new lines etc and to bleed any air pockets that may have formed in the radiator, and to then drive it to RE Customs for its tune. Anyway I turn the key and the starter motor turns over which is an improvement on the previous night, but then nothing more happens, the starter motor just keeps turning over. I then try again and keep it turning over while giving it some throttle and the engine eventually turns over once and then just more starter motor, then it turns over twice, then more starter motor, then it hesitantly starts to turn over and then proceeds to pick up its revs according to the amount of throttle I have on, but then as soon as I take my foot off it instantly dies. After this I quickly checked all connections that I had to disconnect when I was doing the install to see if I had forgotten one but they all seemed fine so now I don’t know what to do! I caught the train/bus to work but I am desperate to get my car back on the road.

Heres any info I could think of concerning things I did while I was working on the car that I think might help diagnose the problem, basically anything I did ill put up as I am completely stumped:

- Removed ignition loom while installing splitfires but double checked and all seems fine to me

- I removed the plugs that are next to the throttle and atop the plenum (ones purple, ones brown and I think there is a black one but I may be mistakes, I have no idea what they do, they are part of the wiring loom) but double and triple checked them and they seem fine

- Disconnected AFM and installed new intake pipe to turbo inlet and then reconnected AFM

- Removed the engine fan and installed a thermo (entire fan assembly including viscous hub went)

- Switched exhaust temp sensor over into the new dump pipe

- Upon installation of new manifold, 3 studs broke but I didn’t bother to replace them as my priority was to get the car back on the road (I was going to replace them after the car was tuned and running on the road as I cant deal with the inconvenience much longer) however I did layer the new gasket in copper coat spray as well as that copper sealant goo as a temporary safety measure/bandaid

- Installed all new lines (oil and water)

- When I installed my new crossover pipe I had to block off the bypass pipe that runs to the back of the plenum as well as the vac line from the bov

- Had to slice the aircon overflow line to get manifold on, but then I reconnected it using a joiner and hose clamps

- When installing new lines I lost a bit of water and oil but nothing substantial. I was going to do an oil change and install an oil cooler and new filter and put in a new JJR rad after the car was back on the road so didn’t top either up

Well that’s about it, I really am sorry for all the reading but I am DESPERATE to get the car back on the road. Iv never taken my car to a mechanic for anything other than a tune as I prefer to work on my car myself and learn more about it along the way, with the bonus being I save the $$ as well as being rewarded with the feeling of accomplishment you get when you complete it (sounds lame I know, but its true) but I am just about at my ends. I don’t want to trailer my car down to the mechanic, only to let them tinker with something simple and then invoice me for exorbitant amounts of money. So here it is, my plea to you SAU, could somebody please help me get my pride and joy back on the road.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan

does not sound like an air leak at all.

This is a AFM \ Sensor issue. I'd be gettign another AFM to test, or another O2 sensor. Maybe you could just turn it off on your ECU.

If you Don't have an aftermarket ECU - Then don't expect any further help from me lol.

Hey guys, thanks for the help. I’m running the stock ecu at the moment just so the car can limp to the tuners as the PFC was tuned for a completely different setup and I don’t have a hand controller to make the appropriate changes (different sized injectors, turbo and afm). The AFM is stock to run with the stock ECU (replacing with q45 on 4 inch intake)

grigor, firstly, thanks for reading it, i know it was MASSIVE wasn’t it lol but I wanted to make sure I was as clear as possible, ill be realising it in a leather bound series later in the year, may organise a GB later. Ill try and get a picture to explain which pipe I’m talking about, I didn’t know that was related to idol, can you explain more about it please as all pervious turbo installs/work I have done have bolted to the stock pipeing.

Sorry if any of this seems a little noob guys, I’m just asking as much as I can and sucking up all the info so I can exhaust every possible issue when I get home tonight and hopefully get this thing back on the road

Cheers,

Ryan

Edited by ardie
Hey guys, thanks for the help. I’m running the stock ecu at the moment just so the car can limp to the tuners as the PFC was tuned for a completely different setup and I don’t have a hand controller to make the appropriate changes (different sized injectors, turbo and afm). The AFM is stock to run with the stock ECU (replacing with q45 on 4 inch intake)

Cheers,

Ryan

AHAHAHAHHA f**k, mate, you make me laugh.

1. You are trying to run bigger injectors, with a factory ECU - BAM, car won't run, or like shit.

2. As grogor pointed out - sounds like you've blocked off the IAC valve - ahahaha no wonder it won't idle if you have really done this..

You seriously thought hte car would actually run, or even limp setup like this?

Sorry about all of the laughing, but seriously - these are some pretty stupid things to do..

This is a AFM \ Sensor issue. I'd be gettign another AFM to test, or another O2 sensor. Maybe you could just turn it off on your ECU.

i highly doubt it would be o2 sensor, but easy way to find out is to unplug it. there is no point putting another one in since the car should run whether it is plugged in or not.

AHAHAHAHHA f**k, mate, you make me laugh.

1. You are trying to run bigger injectors, with a factory ECU - BAM, car won't run, or like shit.

2. As grogor pointed out - sounds like you've blocked off the IAC valve - ahahaha no wonder it won't idle if you have really done this..

You seriously thought hte car would actually run, or even limp setup like this?

Sorry about all of the laughing, but seriously - these are some pretty stupid things to do..

No offence taken about the laughing, like I said i just need help (note to mafia: that didnt help)

Anyways, nope I sold off the old injectors, put the stockies in, got new set waiting in th wings.

As for the IAC Valve, like i said before this is the first turbo I have had to fab up a new crossover pipe for a turbo setup so yeah I had no idea of that stuff. I don't claim to be a genius with this stuff, all I do is bolt up the pieces and put the puzzle together, this time I tried something a little harder and I have f***ed up. If anybody has some constructive advice, please shoot it at me, otherwise Ill just weld on a neck like the one on the stockie pipeing.

Cheers,

Ryan

Edited by ardie

ahaha ok mat, since you were a good sport about it.

The IAC valve allows air to pass into the engine when the throttle body is shut. This allows the engine to breathe while idling. The ECU adjusts this little valve on its own. A spot anywere just before the throttle body on the pipe is fine.

Just to double check - you are using standard injectors with the standard ECU right? If not, this wouldn't work well or at all..

also just out of curiosity, what bov are you running? if it is the stock one, do you have it plumbed back into your new intake pipe (from afm to turbo)?

yes another good point - stock bov NEEDS to be plumbed back - it leaks on idle

Just to double check - you are using standard injectors with the standard ECU right? If not, this wouldn't work well or at all..

Hahahaha mate, I'm stupid..............but not THAT stupid.lol. :laughing-smiley-014:

Dammit, looks like im going to have to crack out the old welder tonight after footy training. Gotta love getting home at 10 after running around for 2 and a half hours to then have 2 pull out the welder and throw on the leathers

Nah running no BOV, I want MAD FLUTTER STYLEZ BRO!!!#$%^%$#

Actually, I have elected to run no bov after reading an article by, hmmm im trying to remember i think it was nizpro concerning the use of BOVs. Its more of a trial thing really. If not ill just weld in a flange for my SSQV

Nah running no BOV, I want MAD FLUTTER STYLEZ BRO!!!#$%^%$#

Actually, I have elected to run no bov after reading an article by, hmmm im trying to remember i think it was nizpro concerning the use of BOVs. Its more of a trial thing really. If not ill just weld in a flange for my SSQV

yeah, they like making up their own version of the truth.

Quote Garrett:

When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.

Does the motor actually turn over, as in start for a second or can you only hear the starter motor?

yeah, iv never run a car without one so im going to give it a bash and see, i heard that because the level of air within the piping is at a higher pressure so it aids in turbo response as there isnt such a great pressure deficit to make up

yeah, when i held the throttle down and kept turning the key it would eventually spring to life and then keep running provided i kept the throttle open. then as soon as i took it off itd die, i think mafia and grigor hit the nail on the head, just got back from bunnings, snatched some pipe to make the bung, now just to fix that leaking gasket lol

Edited by ardie

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