Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got an 1990 r32 gtr, was wandering if it was possible to know what engine my car was from..side of the block says 24U..so i assume its an N1 motor.r32?r33?.r34?

..and one thing that has me stumped is looking at the engine number ,in between RB26 and serial number there is a little R stamped. Everyone i spoke to has never seen it or heard of it... looks like this :

RB26

--------------R

060643A

without the slashes..

I also took the rocker cover off and noticed that the head bolt has a little dot on the rim of the hexbolt..all the ones ive seen are smooth.

thanks guys.

post-38961-1184639089_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176895-n1-block-with-a-r/
Share on other sites

dude! that would have to be one of the bluriest pictures I've ever looked at!

I'm pretty sure the R is on all N1 blocks. the GT blocks have RRR. Though someone with more block knowledge that me can confirm it.

dude! that would have to be one of the bluriest pictures I've ever looked at!

I'm pretty sure the R is on all N1 blocks. the GT blocks have RRR. Though someone with more block knowledge that me can confirm it.

sorry about the photo, camera was really crap and too close to focus. il get some better photos up.

Ive looked at 5 n1 blocks, but they dont have a serial number on block. Was told if you order a block new from nissan,it has no serial number and the ones i looked at has no "R". So i assume its a factory N1 engine but out of what??32,33,34?

Is there a way to tell with the serial number?

thanks.

have you nissfast the number it may give a little more insight?

i didnt know you could check engine numers with fast..hmm..i could post the vin ad model number but im pretty sure the motor is not the original. This car is a bit funny, had a factory exhaust on ( brand new). high pressure intercooler hose clamps, huge alloy radiator with built in oil cooler,front subframe is all drilled out ,high boost setting on the hks evc was at 1.5bar?!? and when the car arrived from japan the clutch was completely destroyed..nismo twin plate. So it just raises suspicions to what it had in japan or what the capabilities of this motor is.

somebody must of seen this " R" before..no one in nz has... = ( , and not one reply from the gtroc forum. Its one of those things that annoy you until you can find the answer...= ).

SOUNDS PRETTY COOL. but its just a block. if your not making over 700hp it really doesnt matte.

being 06...... engine number id say its a 33. a early one.

Finally were getting somewhere..thank you! So an r33 motor.. Spoke to someone today and he told me hes only ever seen that head bolt on r34 motors...so hmm..

I got a street r32 that i ve done evrything to , except motor wise, so was thinking if this motor was up to spec, might swap it over..

700 hp at crank is the goal running 2530's. more than enough for me for the street. Trying to save money where i can for my drag car.should run this season. That car runs twin 3540's ,motec 800,adl pretty much everything under the sun. 1200hp and mid to low 8 is the goal..should post some pictures..not blurry ones..haha. = )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...