Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OWW coming along now :D

just be wary of the sump fouling on the sway bar. some do some dont. not heaps but nothing a block of wood and malet wont fix :D

Tah. Just ordered Moroso pump as well as pre and post filters for it. Nearly there. :P

  • Replies 843
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

OWW coming along now :P

just be wary of the sump fouling on the sway bar. some do some dont. not heaps but nothing a block of wood and malet wont fix :D

mine just touches the paint on the hi energy sump. The exact same sway bar and sump on my friends car touched to the point he couldnt use the combo. Wierd.

Looking forward to seeing you run jambo this year Adrian. It should be a weapon.

Figured on jamming it back into the standard oil filter location although the pump could work too. I'll still be running the cooler I have installed which could feed either option. Pics would be great.

It will go:

back of sump -> pre filter -> pump -> post filter -> oil cooler -> block OR std-pump.

you got me thinking and i went and had a look at mine, and realised i had it done wrong :domokun:

i had the fitting on the std pickup gallery not the std oil feed gallery. just dropped it off to a welder and i'll have it back mondy, so ill upload some pics then

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...