Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seems to me it is set up to negate the leaning off of cyl 5 and 6 at high boost pressures. Being a stock item it's not up to copeing with aftermarket big turbos etc.

Hmmmm! does this mean that a properly set up aftermarket regulator should actually replace the one at the rear of the rail, not just tack on in line after the front one.???

So the firewall regulator lets fuel in to the fuel rail and the front fuel regulator holds fuel back to create the fuel pressure so to speak.

I don't understand why you would need to regulate the fuel coming in to the fuel rail. I would have thought only regulating the fuel leaving the fuel rail would be sufficient.

yeah i agree, unless it's a fail safe, so that in the event of the fuel reg at the exit of the rail failing to release enough pressure, the one on the entry will stop excessive fuel rail pressure, which may otherwise be able to overcome the o-ring seals on the injectors.

Ok this should clear things up a bit. Seires 1 r32's have one fuel reg on the fuel rail . Series II r32's have an extra one on the other side of the fuel rail.

I been trying to work out why this is so . All i can come up with is that it allows more precise regulation of the fuel pressure.

And every r32 i have seen come into work all have a broken vacuum hose going to the second reg. Its a common thing. The hose just gets brittle with age.

Also the second reg doesnt work on vacuum like the primary one. only seems to read positive pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
    • Hi, I need same this wing nismo , Does anyone have one for sale?  if any one have can contact me  00966546888343
    • Nah, lots of insurance repairs on V36 and V37 for pedestrians deployments. Reasons ranging from possums, to extremely severe potholes have deployed them. However, paying for the full repair can still be upto $5k AU some people have noted!
    • Hi, i got 1998 r34 4 door auto abs model and its manual converted with bigbox when i bought it . I successfully find the neutral and reverse light wire but can’t find the speed signal wires for speedo drive. I know its grey plug but on my loom no grey plug with 2 wires . I opened the loom upto where it getting branch with other wire, i’m amazed they is no wire. So need help how to fix the speedometer problem. I search on google it says some r34 model measure speed from diff sensor. Is it right? I talk to a wrecker he say no this isn’t right, i’m kinda stuck. Please help
×
×
  • Create New...