Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know this is a bit off topic but, i know of someone, who knew someone who was at the pub of his face when he got into his car he threw his guts up all over the dash and the vomit went down into the heaters ect... didnt matter how much he cleaned it up the smeel never went away, even after pulling the dash apart, never killed the smell, ended up selling the car. Obviously they didnt have the heaters or aircon switched on when they test drove it... very unlikely this is you case but could just well be the case... hehe

you might wanna refill your aircon, a mate had a falcon and it smelled abit when it was empty...

by the way its winter, what you need aircon for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177468-smelly-air-con/#findComment-3241412
Share on other sites

lol, dead animal ?

I wouldn't be surprised if there was a dead rat behind the heater system. It's nice and warm.

A Vic member had a rat or something eatting his dog's food in his engine bay, anything can be possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177468-smelly-air-con/#findComment-3244984
Share on other sites

try spraying some house old anti bacterial surface spray disinfectant like 'Pine Clean Glen 20' into the air intake vents for the AC when the AC is on, this will clean all of the shit out and should leave you with a better smelling system. It did work on my old car........use heaps of it but. Make sure you don't get a shit smelling one, i got 'fresh linen'.......smells fantastic :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177468-smelly-air-con/#findComment-3245826
Share on other sites

The smell comes from the heater box and evaporator box. After time a build-up of mould and junk builds up in there due to the condensation you get when operating the A/C. Sometimes it can also be due to a blocked A/C drain tube. As im sure the excess water in the drip tray would help to build mould etc. Remove the lower half of the left hand side of tha dash including the glove box and you will be bale to see (from the left), the blower, the evaporator box, heater box. You should be able to remove the evaporator separetly to the other boxes. If i were you (this is what i did and have been told to do) i'd remove the evaporator box and heater box and take them to bit and clean them out with soapy water to remove any grime etc. Another thing that builds up is gunk from the intake air being drawn in by the blower. It gets spread all over the evaporator core, as its the first decent restriction in the air stream. When this happens it can get so bad that you actually get considerably less air flow thru the vents. Check it out.

Regards,

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177468-smelly-air-con/#findComment-3249652
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...