Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for a bit of feedback from those who have tried various close ratio boxes.

I have a GTR which is fairly heavily modified. I have a habit of breaking synchros and am looking for a gearbox that will be used primarily for road use and about 10% for track work.

Should I be going to mission (helical) gearset as opposed to dog gears?

Are dog gears (straight cut) driveable on the street?

I like the price of the OS Giken gearsets however I have heard that I should be looking at PPG's gearsets as they are far stronger.

Those who have either of these or can shed a bit more "user knowledge" on these it would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177675-close-ratio-gearboxes/
Share on other sites

Not speaking from user experience here but you might want to go and look at a PAR gearset.

Least they are over east vs overseas.

the only thing that might annoy you about straight cut is the whine they can generate.

but to get over that you could get straight cut 1-4 then 5th as non straight cut.

least then you can stick it in 5th to get a bit of peace and quiet.

Hey,

you're talking about three different things.

* How the gear teeth fit together - helical, or straight cut. Helical gearsets

impose a lateral load on the gearbox but are quiet and generally used by OEM;

straight cut gearsets have no lateral load but make lots of noise.

You can get a combination set (e.g. straight 1-3, helical 5) so you can cruise

quietly yet have a strong-as-possible 1-4.

* How the gears are engaged - synchromesh, or dog engagement. Synchros

are regarded as nicer to drive and lower-maintenance, dogs permit faster (and clutchless)

shifting. Dogs can take up less space than synchros allowing for wider

(and stronger) helical or straight gearsets.

* The ratios of the gearbox - closer ratios allow for less RPM change between

gears and can suit a 'peaky' motor better than longer ratios.

If you're actually breaking synchros sounds like your shift technique could

do with some modification. This would be important even if you changed to

dog-engagement - even though the technique is different, bad shifting on

a dog-style box is probably more expensive than bad shifting a synchro box.

Regards,

Saliya

Thanks for the feedback so far,

Yeah I'm aware of the difference in gearset types. The reason I was asking is for information on which may be best for the 90/10 usage of the car. Are dogboxes too noisy and clumsy for daily driving - should I be using helical cut for my application??

As far as breaking synchros - this usually is a result of track work. Generally it is 3-4. You can get around it by double clutching - but this doesn't help lap times.

Ultimately my questions are should I use, straight, helical, combo gearsets for 90/10 driving?

Are the OS Giken units any good or should I be looking at ther PPG which is reputably one of the strongest around??

Peter

Are dogboxes too noisy and clumsy for daily driving - should I be using helical cut for my application??

Dog-engagement are completely independent of the cut of the gears themselves. You can have helical cut gears in a dog box, or straight cut gears with synchros.

Are the OS Giken units any good or should I be looking at ther PPG which is reputably one of the strongest around??

Also check out PAR for gearsets. I've heard good things about them, and they're Sydney-based so warranty and support should be easier to come by. They're strong enough that people overseas will buy them from us so they can't be all bad. They don't have Hollinger's reputation, but they also don't have Hollinger's pricetag either.

Edited by scathing

Did you want to wipe his arse while you were at it? :thumbsup:

If he ran a search in the White Pages web site for PAR in Ingleburn NSW, he would find that PAR Engineering comes up as the first match (and only match in Ingleburn).

Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, etc....

Edited by scathing
  • 1 month later...

if your braking syncros,get a dog box with helical cut gears. will be a bit more difficult to drive, but should be easy enough to pick up, and will allow for full throttle upshifts (using the clutch is your choice) but with helical cut gears will remain quiet. if you dont have a problem with braking gears, i'd go for helical cut as your going to be driving on the street, the noise will sh*t you with straight cut gears

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...