Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for a bit of feedback from those who have tried various close ratio boxes.

I have a GTR which is fairly heavily modified. I have a habit of breaking synchros and am looking for a gearbox that will be used primarily for road use and about 10% for track work.

Should I be going to mission (helical) gearset as opposed to dog gears?

Are dog gears (straight cut) driveable on the street?

I like the price of the OS Giken gearsets however I have heard that I should be looking at PPG's gearsets as they are far stronger.

Those who have either of these or can shed a bit more "user knowledge" on these it would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177675-close-ratio-gearboxes/
Share on other sites

Not speaking from user experience here but you might want to go and look at a PAR gearset.

Least they are over east vs overseas.

the only thing that might annoy you about straight cut is the whine they can generate.

but to get over that you could get straight cut 1-4 then 5th as non straight cut.

least then you can stick it in 5th to get a bit of peace and quiet.

Hey,

you're talking about three different things.

* How the gear teeth fit together - helical, or straight cut. Helical gearsets

impose a lateral load on the gearbox but are quiet and generally used by OEM;

straight cut gearsets have no lateral load but make lots of noise.

You can get a combination set (e.g. straight 1-3, helical 5) so you can cruise

quietly yet have a strong-as-possible 1-4.

* How the gears are engaged - synchromesh, or dog engagement. Synchros

are regarded as nicer to drive and lower-maintenance, dogs permit faster (and clutchless)

shifting. Dogs can take up less space than synchros allowing for wider

(and stronger) helical or straight gearsets.

* The ratios of the gearbox - closer ratios allow for less RPM change between

gears and can suit a 'peaky' motor better than longer ratios.

If you're actually breaking synchros sounds like your shift technique could

do with some modification. This would be important even if you changed to

dog-engagement - even though the technique is different, bad shifting on

a dog-style box is probably more expensive than bad shifting a synchro box.

Regards,

Saliya

Thanks for the feedback so far,

Yeah I'm aware of the difference in gearset types. The reason I was asking is for information on which may be best for the 90/10 usage of the car. Are dogboxes too noisy and clumsy for daily driving - should I be using helical cut for my application??

As far as breaking synchros - this usually is a result of track work. Generally it is 3-4. You can get around it by double clutching - but this doesn't help lap times.

Ultimately my questions are should I use, straight, helical, combo gearsets for 90/10 driving?

Are the OS Giken units any good or should I be looking at ther PPG which is reputably one of the strongest around??

Peter

Are dogboxes too noisy and clumsy for daily driving - should I be using helical cut for my application??

Dog-engagement are completely independent of the cut of the gears themselves. You can have helical cut gears in a dog box, or straight cut gears with synchros.

Are the OS Giken units any good or should I be looking at ther PPG which is reputably one of the strongest around??

Also check out PAR for gearsets. I've heard good things about them, and they're Sydney-based so warranty and support should be easier to come by. They're strong enough that people overseas will buy them from us so they can't be all bad. They don't have Hollinger's reputation, but they also don't have Hollinger's pricetag either.

Edited by scathing

Did you want to wipe his arse while you were at it? :thumbsup:

If he ran a search in the White Pages web site for PAR in Ingleburn NSW, he would find that PAR Engineering comes up as the first match (and only match in Ingleburn).

Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, etc....

Edited by scathing
  • 1 month later...

if your braking syncros,get a dog box with helical cut gears. will be a bit more difficult to drive, but should be easy enough to pick up, and will allow for full throttle upshifts (using the clutch is your choice) but with helical cut gears will remain quiet. if you dont have a problem with braking gears, i'd go for helical cut as your going to be driving on the street, the noise will sh*t you with straight cut gears

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...