Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, now apparently it only does it when he backs off. not during acceleration.

When you back off, theres vacuum in the inlet manifold which opens the pcv valve. It could be because of excess oil (built up in the head and dumped into the pcv), or maybe the pcv was reinstalled incorectly. I'd suss it out to be sure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3246630
Share on other sites

if the pcv is rooted (blocked) then you'll get a buildup of pressure in the crankcase and it will start to blow oil out of your seals as well as past your rings. if it is open all the time then you'll get ALOT of what seems to be blow-by.

the head doesnt vent through the pcv, that is only for the crankcase to vent.

keeping the breathers blocked will build up air pressure and force oil through other parts of your motor (valves) and could possibly damage your valve stem seals if too much gets past.

get the breathers connected again and it should stop the problem. if not, its his pcv.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3246868
Share on other sites

if the pcv is rooted (blocked) then you'll get a buildup of pressure in the crankcase and it will start to blow oil out of your seals as well as past your rings. if it is open all the time then you'll get ALOT of what seems to be blow-by.

the head doesnt vent through the pcv, that is only for the crankcase to vent.

keeping the breathers blocked will build up air pressure and force oil through other parts of your motor (valves) and could possibly damage your valve stem seals if too much gets past.

get the breathers connected again and it should stop the problem. if not, its his pcv.

How do you check if the PCV is stuffed i.e. open all the time which is the problem i believe i have.....cause ive got what seems to be heaps of blow by, but the engine was rebuilt in feb

Ps soz to hijack the thread but i figured it was better than starting another.

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3246909
Share on other sites

if you take the pcv hose off the manifold (when the car isn't running) then blow through the hose you shouldn't be able to blow, but then it you suck it should open and you should get a mouthful of oil fumes (bit nasty).

ok, bit of an update. he (ucd12r33) has got the breather pipes breathing again. also it has stopped blowing smoke. it will do it occasionally if he punches it off the line, but no where near as bad as before. also it seems to have burnt off all the excess oil. it seemed to be that as it was burning off oil it went away. i had originally put it down to the fact that he had put about 1L too much oil in and it was sucking excess blowby through the pcv at vacuum. he went and saw a mechanic who thought it might have been the fron seal on the turbo. the turbo is only a few weeks old. but if the seal was gone it shouldn't be getting better.

compression is ok (got it tested too). the problem only started when he put too much oil in. and seems to be going away now that it has burnt of some oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3246955
Share on other sites

smoke off the line could mean worn rings/broken ringland or valve stem seals. but valve stem seals would be more on deceleration.

give it a while before you start assuming its a constant problem because as you said its still burning off oil. give it a few days then report back as the oil will be burning off a few of his parts.

also, if your pcv is a bit sticky or isnt closing and opening freely then soak it in some fuel or metho, then spray some wd40 into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3246985
Share on other sites

smoke off the line could mean worn rings/broken ringland or valve stem seals. but valve stem seals would be more on deceleration.

give it a while before you start assuming its a constant problem because as you said its still burning off oil. give it a few days then report back as the oil will be burning off a few of his parts.

he just said it is pretty much gone now.

i hadn't thought of valve stem seals.

it does have a bit of oil coming out out of the breather pipe (has had for a while, since before the turbo install). it isn't constant, but every now and then you will notice some oil around the rocker cover (used to have a split in the catch can hose where it would come out)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3247032
Share on other sites

i did, but he hasn't got around to it yet.

i saw him drive up the street this morning and he gave it a stab. didn't realyl see any smoke when he stabbed it, but there was a little bit when he stopped in traffic, but it almost looked like condensation.

also, when i said it was burning off oil, i meant that it was just using oil, not that oil spilt on the motor. it kind of sounded like that's what i meant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3248614
Share on other sites

i want to put it on the dyno to check the tune on it (since it has only been road tuned) but he doesn't want to until he has it all sorted. the tune is pretty safe so i'm not worried from that respect.

it has been using a little bit of oil for a while now, but it is just hard to work out exactly where it is coming from. it never blew any smoke really (just the odd puff when stabbing it off the line, but even then it might only be once every few days, never a constant thing) so it has me baffled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177840-white-smoke/#findComment-3249105
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...