Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need to know what PSI base springs people are running in turbosmart 48mm wastegate.??

I have just put a 14psi spring in mine and tested with an air source it wont open the valve till it gets 20psi boost, at 14 psi the valve wont even move. I would like to run as low as 14 psi on the street , and use my EBC to run a max boost of around 20-22psi.

What springs are others with these turbosmart gates running?

And does anyone successfuly run a low psi spring and increase boost via an EBC up to 20+ PSi?

interesting - but couldn't the turbo still output 14 psi while the wastegate is actuating at 20 psi?

is selcting a spring guess work?

I suppose if the spring on wastegate is directly connected to the turbo you could get a flow bench test.

I used a 14psi spring in my 45mm Turbosmart gate (the obsolete model to the 48mm) and it opened @ 14psi perfectly everytime.

If the gate isn't opening at the desired boost level you have a couple of issues maybe.

1. Manifold isn't flowing enough air to the gate, its easier to the air to go out the turbine housing, so its doing that and not going past the gate until sufficient pressure is there

2. Kinda a silly one, but the spring could indeed be wrong.

I think there are a couple more reasons, but its 7am and i just got up :laugh:

I used a 14psi spring in my 45mm Turbosmart gate (the obsolete model to the 48mm) and it opened @ 14psi perfectly everytime.

If the gate isn't opening at the desired boost level you have a couple of issues maybe.

1. Manifold isn't flowing enough air to the gate, its easier to the air to go out the turbine housing, so its doing that and not going past the gate until sufficient pressure is there

2. Kinda a silly one, but the spring could indeed be wrong.

I think there are a couple more reasons, but its 7am and i just got up :thumbsup:

Nismoid, did you use an electric boost controller to boost up over your 14psi base? How much boost?

I havnt tried it on the car yet, i just used compressed air to test when it opens, and it didnt open till it seen 20psi.

I have the single big red spring which is meant to be 14psi.

Anyone else confirm??

Perfectly. :(

No gate creep at all.

I did have some gate creep issues under high load when using the 7psi spring, and bleeding upto 17psi.

But going to a 14psi spring and going up from there worked fine

i use a 45mm pro gate with the 14 psi spring and it holds perfictly.. i have also used the $22 boost controller to bump it up to 17 psi and it held perfictly... but havnt tried to raise it anymore...

have you had previous success with the setup you are using or is this the first time it has been put together with a new setup??

Did you think of exhaust manifold pressure helping to blow the gate open?

We have a winner....

My 17psi spring wasnt opening till about 25ish psi but I added slight pressure with my thumb while testing it and it open fine on 17psi. Once fitted in the car was spot on 17psi

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T
We have a winner....

My 17psi spring wasnt opening till about 25ish psi but I added slight pressure with my thumb while testing it and it open fine on 17psi. Once fitted in the car was spot on 17psi

Odd, iv seen gates bench tested that open at XYZ boost, then when fitted. open at XYZ

We have a winner....

My 17psi spring wasnt opening till about 25ish psi but I added slight pressure with my thumb while testing it and it open fine on 17psi. Once fitted in the car was spot on 17psi

Almost the same as above. I have a 14psi spring in my tial 46mm gate. I hook it up to the compressor and it only opens at 28psi (fully opens that is). However, applying slight pressure to the gate piston with my thumb at about 20 psi, it opens up fine and probaly would at 14 psi, cant remember if I tired or not. So its really quite normal (the gate not opening until a higher than expected pressure) if you do not apply pressure the gate also at the piston thereby mimicking exhaust back pressure, the latter is certainly going apply more pressure than your thumb.

BF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...