Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey y'all

I've just done my baby mods, zorst, front mount, actuator to 12 psi and am looking at an SAFC2.

So if you'd kindly share some knowledge I wanna know what can you get in terms of:

1) Horses

2) Fuel economy

3) Self tune or not?

I was just gonna pay a workshop as I have zero gauges and zero xp.

At the moment it really seems to be guzzling the gas and I'm not a real lead foot, so I'm hoping its worth it for fuel alone.

Edited by vault13

230 - 260 horsies depending on the dyno more than anything else. get a professional tune. Fuel economy will slightly improve (but not really that much - your cruising fuel consumption will remain pretty much unaffected and when your on WOT, your using a shittone of fuel anyway.)

i got 230hp with FMIC, 3" turbo back zorst, high flow cat, 12 psi, pod filter & cold air intakes. SAFC2 tuned by matt spry.

i got 230hp with FMIC, 3" turbo back zorst, high flow cat, 12 psi, pod filter & cold air intakes. SAFC2 tuned by matt spry.

no offence dude, but that is extremely low for those mods. i know a guy that got 230hp out of his stock 33. so either your car is sick, or the dyno is.

most people with a safc are up around the 200kw (270hp) range.

also i know someone who got a about a 20kw gain from his. and then when he put his pfc on he got the exact same max hp figure, but it was stronger down low.

i got what you are talking about and have 270rwhp or 200rwkw at 11 psi. wont go any more though! definitely put a fuel pump in . get around 12 to 13 L / 100, depends how i drive. is your car a auto Strik3r?

i got 191kw @ 10psi.

some tuners get lazy and dont really change anything before 3000rpm. if you go in telling them you want to run a little lean before boost, then want a 12:1 afr from then on and ask for an AFR map to prove they did it, then you should get better consumption as well as power.

i got 195rwkw on 11psi pretty happy with that :pirate:

I wouldn't be complaining either, thats some good power on just 11psi.

Thanks,

Abu

i got 191kw @ 10psi.

some tuners get lazy and dont really change anything before 3000rpm. if you go in telling them you want to run a little lean before boost, then want a 12:1 afr from then on and ask for an AFR map to prove they did it, then you should get better consumption as well as power.

Thats a good tip and also awesome result.

A little lean off boost is good, save fuel also.

Did installation + dyno time set you back much?

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Thats a good tip and also awesome result.

A little lean off boost is good, save fuel also.

Did installation + dyno time set you back much?

Thanks,

Abu

i installed it myself, its not hard at all, theres also a guide in the DIY section.

the tune cost me $200.

Sounds like good advice to me, will be asking for this when I go for a tune :stupid:

$200 sounds pretty cheap for a tune, is that the going rate?

i got 191kw @ 10psi.

some tuners get lazy and dont really change anything before 3000rpm. if you go in telling them you want to run a little lean before boost, then want a 12:1 afr from then on and ask for an AFR map to prove they did it, then you should get better consumption as well as power.

Sounds like good advice to me, will be asking for this when I go for a tune :thumbsup:

$200 sounds pretty cheap for a tune, is that the going rate?

Some may even do it cheaper providing everything on the car is up to par. For example i took my car in for an safcII tune after i installed it myself thinking that it would be around 150-$200 for the tune, but turns out my oxy sensor and fuel pump were gone. So not only did i waste time on the dyno but money also! But when i took it back with the new pump and oxy it cost me $150 for the tune. :thumbsup: some workshops do them more than others so they can get them done pretty quickly and with good results. So providing everything is cool with your car 150 to 200 should be about the price. :thumbsup:

People where is best place for buying it? suggest and link it here if you can

Well safcII has been replaced by apexi afc neo. So finidng one may prove a bit harder than say a year ago or so. Have a look around the for sale section and business traders - i got mine from a trader off here - bt revolution. But as i said a lot of traders / shops etc may not have them anymore and will have the afc neo which will give you the same result anyways - bit more expensive but has a cool colour screen! Also try nengun, or greenline.jp - thats to import one. Good luck :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...