Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I know in Queensland to keep a car LHD it has to be 30 years old, or older. Now, does anyone know what the rule is when the 30 year old “age” is taken from?

Is it like the old “15 yr old” rule, where it was taken from the date/month of manufacture, or do DOTARS take LHD cars from just the year, for example any car made in 1977 currently.

Does anyone know what the ruling is, if say you import a 1978 car which was LHD into Queensland, but didn’t get it complied until it was “30 years” old?

Would it still be eligible to stay LHD at a later date? Or technically would it have to stay overseas until it was old enough to be imported and complied as a LHD car?

When I had my valiant (last year), i was a chrysler club member. From what I can remember it was vehicles made pre 1969 were allowd to be LHD. I would send an email to [email protected] he should be able to give you the info that you need.

anything lhd 30 years mm/yy and older does not need to be converted..

Cheers ;) BUT, does anyone know the rule in regard to bringing a 1978 car over now, and not getting ADR'd/complianced until it reached 30 years old?

I'm of the understanding with cars pre 1988 you have an open time frame to L01 comply them, which means I can leave a 1978 car sitting around, however the confusion is can I bring a 1978 car over and leave it and ADR it when its 30 years old as a LHD car, or can it only be brought over if I want to keep it LHD once it is 30 years old.

why josh? why

Always wanted a 911 with an RS/RSR look. HAD to be LHD (I have an obsession with Porsche having to be LHD) and preferably want a 75/76+ body shell as Porsche started to galvanize them from then on.

wtf do you want now...I can only assume it's a vw? :D

Yeah, we are close with the RUF directors in Dallas, so they are keeping an eye open for something special for me, as well as another contact in California. A really shmicko track set up 73` has pop'd up in Texas but the weber's and cams are way to ridiculous for daily driving.

There is a "club day" prep'd 78` sitting in japan at the moment, but as above the problem is can it enter now and be ADR'd next year as a LHD car or does technicaly it have to come over when it's "30 years old" to stay LHD.

When I had my valiant (last year), i was a chrysler club member. From what I can remember it was vehicles made pre 1969 were allowd to be LHD. I would send an email to [email protected] he should be able to give you the info that you need.

Cheers, I'll see what they have too say as well. Was under the impression from the Porsche club it was now 30 years old :worship:

fair point Josh...

I cant seem to catch that damn GT3 round QR, so they must be doing something good... :sleep:

But in my mind I keep telling myself his car is worth 300k and mine is worth 25k plus the driver of the GT3 is 40 something and im 20 something...

So thats how I justify why I cant beat that GT3... :)

Yeah, alot of the new Porsches are boring and a tad plastic, however I have a love for carbon fibre and magnesium....Carrera GT pwns all and everyone knows it. I'll go halfs, don't know how we're getting it here though, noone seems to import them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...