Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased my first Stagea and I am not 100% sure on the use of the A/T switch that it has. The Stagea is a 1999 AWD turbo version with twin sunrooves (if this makes any difference). I bought a more comprehensive users manual as the one that was supplied with the car was crap, however this manual says that the A/T switch should have 3 positions - "A/T Position" (switches automatically from Power to economy), "Power" (self explanitory) and "D Position" (For snowy conditions - yeah right I live in Perth!). My Stagea has only 2 positions and no light comes on on the dash to let me know whether it is "Power" "Economy" or "D" mode.

I am pretty sure that having only 2 positions on the switch means that I am in either "A/T' mode (automatically switches from power to economy) or snow mode - which i guess is a traction control system.

I would appreciate it if someone could confirm my assumpotions, or if I am wrong let me know what this switch does.

Also, I do not have an overdrive swirch on the auto transmission - seems that overdrive is always on.

Cheeers all :sleep:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179192-at-mode-switch-explaination/
Share on other sites

I have recently purchased my first Stagea and I am not 100% sure on the use of the A/T switch that it has. The Stagea is a 1999 AWD turbo version with twin sunrooves (if this makes any difference). I bought a more comprehensive users manual as the one that was supplied with the car was crap, however this manual says that the A/T switch should have 3 positions - "A/T Position" (switches automatically from Power to economy), "Power" (self explanitory) and "D Position" (For snowy conditions - yeah right I live in Perth!). My Stagea has only 2 positions and no light comes on on the dash to let me know whether it is "Power" "Economy" or "D" mode.

I am pretty sure that having only 2 positions on the switch means that I am in either "A/T' mode (automatically switches from power to economy) or snow mode - which i guess is a traction control system.

I would appreciate it if someone could confirm my assumpotions, or if I am wrong let me know what this switch does.

Also, I do not have an overdrive swirch on the auto transmission - seems that overdrive is always on.

Cheeers all :sleep:

Your Series 2 will only have 2 positions - normal and snow. The snow ensures that you take off at a high gear with plenty of slippage from the Auto. You will learn pretty quickly that you just leave it at normal and will never touch it again, until your kids have pushed the button whilst playing in the car and you wonder why its not very responsive!

enjoy your new ride and welcome to the crew.

1999 I would have expected to run tiptronic ?

oh and .. there are 2 at switches dont forget.

one specifically for snow ( thats my understanding ) and thats to the left of the steering wheel

this causes an indicator to light on the dash - I am pretty sure this makes the torque split 50/50 front/rear , and there is another mysterious switch near your center console that just says A/T

I am in perth too .. and to be honest if I never see snow again I will be happy!

so yeah.. we just leave those 2 switches the hell alone.

what I was looking for before is the POWER switch ( for overtaking ) then it dawned on me that you just put it into tiptronic and knock it back a gear.

not sure about S2, but the S1 has a 3 position switch to the right of the stick.

it says power at the top, and snow at the bottom.

snow is as said before, a high gear with slippage, power is obviously that, holds out the revs longer.

leaving the switch in the central position is the 3rd mode, or normal mode, however it will activate the 'power' mode by itself if you put your foot down. :sleep:

The s1 has a "power" mode and separate "overdrive" switch but the S2 has neither.

Well, I believe it DOES have a 'power' mode of sorts, just that it is automatic and not activated by a button, much like it will automatically go into power mode if you put your foot to the floor in a s1.

The s2 is tiptronic, and you also have the 2,3, and Drive as well as the tiptronic mode. No real need for a gear to hold it in first, since leaving it in tiptronic will do this. But to turn overdrive off in a s2 you could just leave the gearstick in the "3" position which would essentially change gears as normal but not go into 4th/overdrive.

The button in the centre console labelled "snow" will put the auto in "snow mode" if lit up, which basically just lets you start off in 2nd instead of 1st to improve traction in slippery areas...maybe good for towing. Most of us wont need to use it since it doesn't snow in very many places in australia.

The button on the dash activates 50/50 torque split which may be useful if driving on a slippery surface but note that it only keeps 50/50 torque split up to a certain speed or revs (not sure exactly where the point is) and then it will revert to normal operation, transferring torque between the front and rear wheels as it sees the need. The ATTESA system can vary the torque split from 50/50 to full rear or anywhere in between. To oversimplify it, if any one wheel loses traction, it directs torque away from that wheel and to the wheels that still have traction. :D

Its not a good idea to leave the 50/50 mode on all the time for daily driving as the system wasn't designed to work as a constant awd setup and this will likely end up with your clutch packs getting burned out = very expensive to fix. You'll find it pretty hard to lose traction even with the 50/50 button turned off anyway.

Those who want more from the A/T should look into a shift kit from MV Automatics here in SA. Very good value for money and way better shift quality and speed. :D

Most of the above info is on the forum and can be found by using the search button >_<

Actually the "overdrive on the autobox isn't really.... but it has a lock-up convertor. Which drops the revs more than 4th. The easiest way to take this off is to put the stick in the Tiptronic slot, but don't change down. You'll here the revs lift straight away. Putting it 3rd it too low, and will restrict speed and use lots more fuel. The snow button would be useful on very slippery surfaces, such as boat ramps etc.... 'cept I aint ever takin' mine that near the sea!!

Also you shouldn't use the 50/50 button unless you are off road and wheels can slip, ie loose gravel or sand.

IMO you can't beat the full auto... it has some very smart brains telling it what to do. I mainly use the tiptronic for change down on corners and then put it straight back into D, certainly makes the engine brake.

Thanks all for the reponses. As deduced by you good people it is a series 2... and i have noticed that if i am in tiptronic mode (and in 4th) then slip it across to D, the reve do drop further - which had me kind of had ne stumped because i thought 4th was the over drive. Thanks for the input Appealing.

Also i thought that these were constant AWD vehicles but it seems they are rear wheel drive and move torque to the front end if the rear starts to loose grip. Is this correct?

Cheers again

Thanks all for the reponses. As deduced by you good people it is a series 2... and i have noticed that if i am in tiptronic mode (and in 4th) then slip it across to D, the reve do drop further - which had me kind of had ne stumped because i thought 4th was the over drive. Thanks for the input Appealing.

Also i thought that these were constant AWD vehicles but it seems they are rear wheel drive and move torque to the front end if the rear starts to loose grip. Is this correct?

Cheers again

AS Goldzilla says, s'right..... but don't think that you are going to get the rear wheels spinning..... I can't even feel a twitch not even in the wet. The power take up to the front is so fast that you would swear they were full time AWD. Have fun though.... they are one awesome fun to drive machine..... where are my keys!

The AWD system is a lot more advanced than something that just drives the front wheels when the rears slip. Thats more like how mechanical full-time AWD vehicles work, through a mechanical centre diff that drives the front when there's slippage in the rear, which basically gives you 2 different torque splits, one for normal and another for when there's slippage. Not all that technical.

But ATTESA is different. It has a 16-bit processor that reads various different inputs from the car, including the ABS sensors from all 4 wheels to measure slippage, as well as longitudinal and latitudinal g-force sensors, that can help it to re-act to weight transfer front-back or sideways. The computer can respond to traction loss (or even when it anticipates there *might* be traction loss) in 1/100th of a second, which is why you cant feel it slipping.

Also, because it works by sharing torque between the front and rear wheels, and is computer controlled, it can vary the torque split from ~95% rear to 50:50 or anywhere in between - as it sees fit. It knows if any wheel is slipping, or if the car is cornering quickly, or if the car is accelerating quickly - and it will transfer torque accordingly. Even on a dry road, if you put your foot to the floor it will likely end up transferring 50% of the torque to the front. It wouldn't slip anyway, but the system is just making sure you get Total Traction (which is what the two 'T's in ATTESA-ETS stand for = "Advanced Total Traction Electronic System for All - Electronic Torque Split").

The benefit of ATTESA over a traditional full-time AWD system is that you get the advantages of RWD (smaller turning circle, better fuel economy) for daily driving and the confidence and traction of AWD when you need it. :down:

For those who aren't aware, its the same AWD system that's in the skyline GTR, and I believe its also used in the newer nissan SUV's/4WD's as well although most likely with different computer logic as suited to the purpose of the vehicle.

...ATTESA-ETS stand for = "Advanced Total Traction Electronic System for All - Electronic Torque Split")

I love it... left a Commonwhore at the lights today spinning away in the wet as i booted off. :laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by webng
Also you shouldn't use the 50/50 button unless you are off road and wheels can slip, ie loose gravel or sand.

Though I know I've got an "rs4s" ie manual, I find the stagea as is to be very very good on dirt - so I suspect you don't need that button even then...

IMO you can't beat the full auto... it has some very smart brains telling it what to do. I mainly use the tiptronic for change down on corners and then put it straight back into D, certainly makes the engine brake.

Exactly how I drive my r34 skyline - the tiptronic box is much much much better than most people realize at getting the gear right most of the time (it does it as a function of the pedal position and current speed, I've got the graph if anyone wants to see it). It is MUCH better than the auto box that is in a r33/ stagea S1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...