Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all this is my situation.

I have a 96 r33 gtst and when driving and coming to a stop and sometimes whilst driving the car will stall.

Whilst sitting at the light after stopping the idle of the car sometimes sits at 1k or 1.2k or even sometimes

after i have started it again it idles at 2k. If i rev it it drops back to normal 700rpm. Im thinking it may be the AFM.

My car has the following mods: cat back exhaust, bov, boost controller, pod filter. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Price for a new airflow meter if that is the problem?

regards

jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179316-r33-gtst-staling-problem/
Share on other sites

so most probably it has a leak right? or if i can tighten it it will take more pressure to open up.

just a quick question how does the bov controll the idle and stalling. vaccum leaks i guess

No, it wont have a leak. Its just ATMO venting.

The AFM (near your pod) normally has the air re-circ back to it. The ECU expects it to be there and buy installing a pointless Atmo BOV, your sending the ECU into a fit.

To fix the problem for good you have two options.

1. Put the stock BOV back on (less than $100)

2. Purchase some management, pay for a tune (potentially over $1500)

BOV's are a pointless mod, much like pod filters. They offer not performance gain over the OEM gear, if anything they hinder performance

a bandaid fix for it is to get new spark plugs.

spark plugs?? i had the same problem the factory bov (when run in atmo)is held open a little by vaccum from the manifold which basically intoduces a leak into the intake system, the engine is taking in unmetered air, if it is adjustable just tighten it a little other wise vent it back and you shouldnt have a problem.

Edited by drf76
spark plugs?? i had the same problem the factory bov is held open a little by vaccum from the manifold which basically intoduces a leak into the intake system, the engine is taking in unmetered air, if it is adjustable just tighten it a little other wise vent it back and you shouldnt have a problem.

If it were a factory BOV you wouldn't have aproblem if it were open at idle for letting in unmetered air, as it'd just be allowing the same metered air to travel a different path INTO the engine.

If it were a factory BOV you wouldn't have aproblem if it were open at idle for letting in unmetered air, as it'd just be allowing the same metered air to travel a different path INTO the engine.

i always thought that it would cancel out due to the air being sucked into the turbo and air being blow out towards the throttle body pipe where the bov is mounted, taking of the bov recirc pipe stuffs the balance and causes air to be drawn in, its just like having a pcv valve connected with a catch tank that is vented, it would cause a vac leak through the rocker cover, thats why near the bov recirc pipe you have the breather for the rocker cover into the intake pipe (near the afmeter) to stop a vac leak to the manifold.

i always thought that it would cancel out due to the air being sucked into the turbo and air being blow out towards the throttle body pipe where the bov is mounted, taking of the bov recirc pipe stuffs the balance and causes air to be drawn in, its just like having a pcv valve connected with a catch tank that is vented, it would cause a vac leak through the rocker cover, thats why near the bov recirc pipe you have the breather for the rocker cover into the intake pipe (near the afmeter) to stop a vac leak to the manifold.

Turbo does nothing at idle.

Air comes in through AFM, through turbo, through throttle, into manifold.

If BOV is open

Air comes through AFM, through turbo (And also through the recirc pipe and comes out just before the throttle) and then into manifold.

Whilst the car is in vacuum. Air is being SUCKED not forced through the intake.

Turbo does nothing at idle.

Air comes in through AFM, through turbo, through throttle, into manifold.

If BOV is open

Air comes through AFM, through turbo (And also through the recirc pipe and comes out just before the throttle) and then into manifold.

Whilst the car is in vacuum. Air is being SUCKED not forced through the intake.

i know air is not forced into the intake lol wrong wording, its not on boost at idle, the suction before and after the turbo cancels out when you have the recircirc pipe connected so no air is being drawn through the bov, put it this way would it be good to have a small hole in the intercooler piping which is wat the bov is basically doing.

i know air is not forced into the intake lol wrong wording, its not on boost at idle, the suction before and after the turbo cancels out when you have the recircirc pipe connected so no air is being drawn through the bov, put it this way would it be good to have a small hole in the intercooler piping which is wat the bov is basically doing.

If there's a recirc ppipe, then that's like saying, with a hole in the intercooler piping, put an AFM so the ECU knows.

The air, even if the engine is pulling air through the BOV from the recirc pipe, the recirc pipe is still AFTER the AFM, therefore, it's affectively just "changing lanes" but it still went through the toll

If there's a recirc ppipe, then that's like saying, with a hole in the intercooler piping, put an AFM so the ECU knows.

no its only there on idle due to the high vacumm, so its sealed under boost, im just saying at idle low rpm with vacumm. Its too hard to explain, its exacltly the same a have a pcv valve with a vented catch tank almost the same thing. By the way Im basing this if the factory bov is run to the atmoshpere, i understand that if it run with a recirc pipe there is no difference it just taking a different path still to the throttle body, i think there was a misunderstanding MBS206

Edited by drf76
no its only there on idle due to the high vacumm, so its sealed under boost, im just saying at idle low rpm with vacumm. Its too hard to explain, its exacltly the same a have a pcv valve with a vented catch tank almost the same thing. By the way Im basing this if the factory bov is run to the atmoshpere, i understand that if it run with a recirc pipe there is no difference it just taking a different path still to the throttle body, i think there was a misunderstanding MBS206

If there's no recirc pipe, that's most likely one of the huge issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...