Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im in the process of rebuilding my neo rd25. This process started 14mnths ago and i have since changed my dam mind about 100 times. I was orignally going to run a hks gt28 kit ( for sale ). But if im forking out some much for a reliable big power engine then might as well match a turbo to suit. I need some advice and suggestion on running a package that is both reliable and effective. My power goal is 450rwkw..Yes i know its going to be a lag monster....But im a power junkie....We are strictly taking about engnie mods only and not susp driveline etc which I am fully aware is also a priority!

Engine mods:

tomie in tank lift pump

x2 bosch 044 pumps

sard fpr

surge tank

sard 1000cc injectors

HKS gtr hks fuel rail

tomei poncams 260

hks timing belt

heavy duty valve springs/retainers

k-line valve guides

hks 1.2mm gasket

head work

head studs

wiseco 40thou pistons

head decked to suitable comp ( thinking 8.8)

eagle h beam rods/bolts

acl engine bearings

main stud kit

balanced bottom end

crank collar

n1 water/oil pump

to4z .81 a/r

6boost manifold

hybrid cooler

x2 z32 afm

power fc/av-cr

splitfires

greddy plenum

q45 tb

It will only be a weekend driver and never see track days.

1. I dont know weather to sell the n1 oil pump and fork out the jun one together with a larger sump? Would this be needed? I will modify whats needed to the cylinder head and try keep oil down bottom end.

2.How is the power fc going to run the twin afms?

3. Splitfires sufficent or do i need some mw ignition

4. how about cam gears? I heard NEO dont respond to them and waste of money

5. Will there be any clearance issues mounting the turbo?

any feedback appreciated

Edited by ovabooster
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/
Share on other sites

whats the point of having an 450rwkw weekend driver?

was the manifold meant for a r33? if so you might have clearance issues with the turbo.

It will only be a weekend driver and never see track days.

1. I dont know weather to sell the n1 oil pump and fork out the jun one together with a larger sump? Would this be needed? I will modify whats needed to the cylinder head and try keep oil down bottom end.

2.How is the power fc going to run the twin afms?

3. Splitfires sufficent or do i need some mw ignition

4. how about cam gears? I heard NEO dont respond to them and waste of money

5. Will there be any clearance issues mounting the turbo?

any feedback appreciated

Edited by BaysideBlue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/#findComment-3268174
Share on other sites

1. I dont know weather to sell the n1 oil pump and fork out the jun one together with a larger sump? Would this be needed? I will modify whats needed to the cylinder head and try keep oil down bottom end.

2.How is the power fc going to run the twin afms?

3. Splitfires sufficent or do i need some mw ignition

4. how about cam gears? I heard NEO dont respond to them and waste of money

5. Will there be any clearance issues mounting the turbo?

any feedback appreciated

1. Never see's track days - N1 should be fine. If you were going to flog it i would personally get a JUN for that application.

2. Fine

3. Yep, you might need an ignition box (HKS)

4. In stock for the NEO doesnt like them, but your no longer stock/ish so give em a whirl

5. As you said, manifold is custom made... so mute point that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/#findComment-3268195
Share on other sites

it should be noted if you plan on using the neo 25 powerfc it will not support twin afms

your options are;

use neo 25 with safc II or neo to split the afm signals and math squish them to a single afm input ECU

use rb26 powerfc and run twin afms correctly - but youll need to get it working with all of the neo sensors etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/#findComment-3268199
Share on other sites

Most of the mods sound good, however i would get oversize valves to go with the headwork, and bigger cams. no need for 1000cc injectors, just 720's or 800's.I would only use a thicker headgasket if it is necessary to achieve the correct squish/compression. Have you considered putting an rb30 bottom end in, as it will probably end up cheaper(as you can sell your existing bottom end for more than an rb30 bottom end will cost), and it will reduce the lag cosiderably making it a heaps nicer drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/#findComment-3268341
Share on other sites

most of the parts are already purchased....As mentioned the whole package was orignally built for my hks gt2835. I've gone alittle over board since then. I already have a power fc so what are my options?....sell it and get a wolf 3d? I wouldnt have to spend to much more I surpose coz i can flog off the z32 afm too..It just a matter of selling things at the right price. I also already have the 1.2mm head gasket. Runing 40thou pistions on stock thickness gives comp in the low 8's, I think 8.3...thinking better to get the engine builder to deck the head to a suitable ratio instead. I also already got nismo 480cc injectors....so upgrade to sard 800 is the go. Cams are also purchased and i read good things about these 260's.....Would oversize valves not benefit much with these as I think bigger cams would better. I have considered a rb30 bottom end..trust me and only if i thought of that at the start...but the i would have to sell most of my gear...to much hassel. I might just get a spare smaller a/r for driving and larger one for dyno's or when i need to boost my ego alittle....

If any1 is interested of know's of any1 else who is

For sale

Brand new nismo 480cc injectors

Brand new Power fc

Brand new z32 afm

Brand new hks gt2835 pro s kit

pm for prices

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179325-rb25det-rebuild/#findComment-3269230
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...