Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VG30 for sure, the rb25 housing really is limited when you start hi-flowing. You won't notice much difference in response comparing vg30 hi-flow with rb25hiflow if the exhaust housing are bored out to the same diameter. Some people with stock vg30 turbo's notice no difference in spooling time compared to the rb25 turbo.

ive had personal experience with gcg hiflow with vg30 ex housing.. would recommend it. was great. made 258kw at treads on 15psi on my engine, definately worth the extra coin. do it once and properly insted of being limited to 240kw or a squeeze more

I am also considering getting a VG30 housing on my hiflow. I have a slide RB25 hiflow that is going on a RB30DET. as slide is no longer doing hiflows I would have to get the VG30 housing machined to fit elsewhere. anyone have any idea what sort of cost is involved? I have rung a few places and incl gcg and got a lot of different answers.

The reason for keeping the hiflow is wanting to retain the stock look and I am not going for any world records. 260rwkw will be fine. currently the hiflow makes 240 on my RB20.

Ceff - there is no need to go to a place like gcg. Last time I asked them, they were looking for around 300 labour. I'd rather put that money towards the cost of the housing instead. Any machine shop with a lathe would be able to machine it out really easily to whatever spec you want. That is, either the same, less or more clearance - whatever you like.

Ben - vg30 housing is better in regards to wheelspin. One of my friends with a vg housing said that the car was a lot more driveable - more useable power with the vg. Instead of you having to watch your right foot, because the power is up a few rpm higher, less wheelspin.

Edited by MANWHORE

2.3 60 foot says it all, no wheelspin at launch, bogged it down nearly very time. 112mph was good, just gotta get take off mastered but yeah with better tires i could have used more revs. now its a different ball game all together, with new setup. good luck

Hi

anyone had any experience with the AVO exhaust housing, I'm expecting one this week, would like some feedback!

hopeing it'll free up the top end, i run into alot of back pressure around 6500 rpm, atm running gt30 machined into std housings, should be interesting.

hi, no i never had the 33 housing on it, i wanted the most out of the turbo so opted for vg30 housing first up... lag is minor, for the power the turbo makes, for me it was more responsive than the apposing cars i raced with bigger turbo's.. u wont regret it, thinking too much, just do it...haha

Hi

anyone had any experience with the AVO exhaust housing, I'm expecting one this week, would like some feedback!

hopeing it'll free up the top end, i run into alot of back pressure around 6500 rpm, atm running gt30 machined into std housings, should be interesting.

Unless if you're getting the avo housing for a very very good price, and unless if it will allow you to maintain the straight bolt on factor of a vg30 housing, i'd give it a miss.

The vg30 housings are a lot bigger (0.8AR as opposed to the standard 0.6ar). Unless if you're running a 13b/20b rotory/rb30 or something, I wouldn't really want to go bigger than a 0.8 on an rb25.

Unless if you're getting the avo housing for a very very good price, and unless if it will allow you to maintain the straight bolt on factor of a vg30 housing, i'd give it a miss.

The vg30 housings are a lot bigger (0.8AR as opposed to the standard 0.6ar). Unless if you're running a 13b/20b rotory/rb30 or something, I wouldn't really want to go bigger than a 0.8 on an rb25.

thanks, but not sure were on the same page, the AVO exhaust housing is a .73 and is a direct bolt on for the rb25

http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

thanks, but not sure were on the same page, the AVO exhaust housing is a .73 and is a direct bolt on for the rb25

http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

I think I might have been a bit unclear. I was a bit tired from work.

What I was saying, is that with a vg30 housing, you get a 0.8A/R housing, which is bigger than the AVO's 0.7A/R. I was saying that the 0.8 is perfect - I feel that if i'm going to do a turbo upgrade, it had better been a worthwhile one. But on the other hand, you don't want to go too big either e.g. 1.0A/r otherwise, our 2.5L engines will have trouble spooling it (more suited to an rb30/13b/20b). 0.8 is not too big and not too small.

Also, price was another issue that I spoke about. The AVO one is 700 rrp.... whereas if you pick up a vg30 one, your turbo highflower will sandblast it anyway as part of the price, and it will come up looking brand new for half the price.

Really would like to know how laggy it is. At the moment the R33 highflow with a slightly smaller exh wheel and bigg comp wheel than current GCG feels a little doughy..maybe because its running a bit rich.

The FMIC definately killed the response a bit..

Are HKS GTRS a lot less laggy than the R33 highflow with VG30.

Is a standard R33 high flow more comparable to a GTRS?

When you say feelign a bit doughy, do you mean it feels a bit unresponsive?

Basically, the best way to describe what happens with a bigger turbo, is if you're only running around 10-12 psi, it'll feel pretty unresponsive, and it'll feel like it makes less power than stock.

Take my turbo as an example - takes a bit of time to get up to 10 psi, but once it gets up to 10, 18 psi comes very quickly.

Shoot Al a pm. Initially, he had a vg30 highflow. Switched it for a gtrs. From my experience, the gtrs make a bit more power than a standard r33 highflow. More like a vg30.

Bullant47 did a write up about his experience with changing housing on a GCG highflow. I've noticed similar. maybe about 150-200 rpm later, with loads more power.

Chuck on a cam gear - should help a fair bit.

Have you had it tuned yet? a tune helps a fair bit. more timing will help spool.

Im ripping my turbo off tonight and getting it fixed.

I have a blown R33 GCG and VG30 turbo for parts. Might sell 1 of them or sell some of the parts after I've used what I need. The VG30 BB turbo is actually in really good nick. No shaft play. Might wack a different exh housing on it and sell it as a hybrid.

Have you had yours tuned CHris? If so how does it go? You happy with it now? What sort of power you making?

I think I might have been a bit unclear. I was a bit tired from work.

What I was saying, is that with a vg30 housing, you get a 0.8A/R housing, which is bigger than the AVO's 0.7A/R. I was saying that the 0.8 is perfect - I feel that if i'm going to do a turbo upgrade, it had better been a worthwhile one. But on the other hand, you don't want to go too big either e.g. 1.0A/r otherwise, our 2.5L engines will have trouble spooling it (more suited to an rb30/13b/20b). 0.8 is not too big and not too small.

Also, price was another issue that I spoke about. The AVO one is 700 rrp.... whereas if you pick up a vg30 one, your turbo highflower will sandblast it anyway as part of the price, and it will come up looking brand new for half the price.

Ok, I thought VG30 was .7 also, I should have the AVO this week for $480

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...