Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

To put simply oil is thicker when its cold, and as it warms up it becomes thinner. Thinner fluid = less resistence = less pressure.

It is completely normal and everycar will do it.

Abit off topic but, why did you check your coolant if you were worried about oil pressure???

Hey fellas, thanks for your replies... glad to hear it's normal.

R34GTFOUR - your question is valid; I checked my coolant thinking that there's something wrong with the engine hence making it overheat and therefore perhaps increasing the pressure of the oil etc - worth a check, I guess.

That's good to know... many thanks everyone.

Regards,

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

If the oil is cold how can it be hot???? Unless when you say temperature gauge, you mean pressure gauge?

If the oil is cold how can it be hot???? Unless when you say temperature gauge, you mean pressure gauge?

Hey mate, I don't know what it's called to be honest - you know, the gauage on the far right corner... has a picture of a oil can or something... always thought it was the engine / oil tempature gauage.

on a related topic...

after the car warms up, is it ok for the pressure to slighty fluctuate up and down onthat guage when on the throttle?

I'm trying a different oil this time and noticed that it rises with the throttle slightly (guessing the oil is thinner?)

The oil level is fine according to the dip stick

Using motul turboight this time, Ddnt use to happen when i used mobile1 which was thinner :S

The pressure should go up and down with revs...

For example...

idle. 1st dash...

3000rpm. half way

5000rpm. 3/4 of the way up...

As the engine is revving the oil pressure is rising.

What I meant was that when your oil is cold, it is thick, it takes a lot more effort to push it through the journals and oilways, and until the oil warms up the pressure reading is higher up to 7kg/cm2 [this also depends on the type of oil and its viscosity rating]. Once the oil warms up, it thins out to its specified viscosity and your oil pressure gauge starts reading 3.5-4.0kg. inversely on a stinking hot day your oil pressure can drop to 3.0-3.5 especially if your oil is old or needs changing.

I guess we've cleared it up pretty good fealls... I just to get worried too - as the pressure gauage used to flucate quite often. Guess it's normal... and I use Mobil1 in my car too.

Also noticed, if you increase the boost - the higher the boost, the more the pressure rises.

Also noticed, if you increase the boost - the higher the boost, the more the pressure rises.

Boost has nothing to do with oil pressure. Revs can change pressure. Your oil pump is mechanically driven, it is linked to the motor. So the more the motor revs, the more your oil pump spins, the greater the pressure. This is counterbalanced by the volume your pump can physically supply. It gets to a certain rev limit and no matter how hard it spins or increases revs, it physically cannot pump any more oil, it has reached its maximum flow rate. The maximum flow rate is also affected by the type of oil, the gallery and journal/bearing size, and the scavenge supply [if you flood the head and starve the bottom end supply].

Boost has nothing to do with oil pressure. Revs can change pressure. Your oil pump is mechanically driven, it is linked to the motor. So the more the motor revs, the more your oil pump spins, the greater the pressure. This is counterbalanced by the volume your pump can physically supply. It gets to a certain rev limit and no matter how hard it spins or increases revs, it physically cannot pump any more oil, it has reached its maximum flow rate. The maximum flow rate is also affected by the type of oil, the gallery and journal/bearing size, and the scavenge supply [if you flood the head and starve the bottom end supply].

Thanks for the extra information buddy - you've explained this well and in a way that is easy to understand - thank you mate!!

Regards,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...