Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys couldnt find a thread for this one even though its prob around got my self a z32 and just wanted to know if the myth is true that if u take the mesh cover off do u get more power hopefully i used the right description for wat im talkin about taking off the metaly wirey stuff ahhaa

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

In theory you will get better air-flow, mine were missing when I got my car, but everyone seems to be freaked about them missing, ... not sure why tho.

Is there someone out there who can shine more light on this matter?

I guess it is to stop debris entering the tracht, but if one is careful, then what diff would it make in reality?.. only better flow..!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3274929
Share on other sites

Hey Guys couldnt find a thread for this one even though its prob around got my self a z32 and just wanted to know if the myth is true that if u take the mesh cover off do u get more power hopefully i used the right description for wat im talkin about taking off the metaly wirey stuff ahhaa

You wont notice a difference.

Leave it on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3274939
Share on other sites

Hmmm..! someone butchered mine then..!!

I guess there's theory here too... like not letting air enter the area un-distributed... sorta like spreading it out.

When we dyno'd it, we went to replacements, as the MAFS were giving odd readings at times, but we could not pin-point it..!!

Could be this metal grid that wasnt distributing air-flo 'more-evenly'

Anyway, 'tis true, I kept them on. You have to remember that its not about how much air can enter, but what air can be metered accurately.

I go with the "Leave it on" brigade. (plus theres the added benefit of "foreign body ingress" avoidance...!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275057
Share on other sites

Nissan recommend strongly against removing the mesh, leave it on. Theres a fine coating of Molybdenum, that scrubs the incoming dark matter out of the air. The dark matter can foul valve guides, pit compressor wheels and burn out mufflers prematurely.

I knew a guy, who had a friend, who's battery ran flat with the headlights on in 5hours and 4mins... this was 29mins longer then another guy who had the mesh taken out. Does a positive ionic charge caused by the mesh make the battery last longer? "You be the judge"

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275600
Share on other sites

Dark matter? sounds like someone has been watching too much star trek...

My personal theory is that it evens the spread of the incoming air, probably more useful at low pressures for distribution accross the sensor, but if you have a look at taps - ones without the mesh covering the outlet and the ones with mesh covering the outlet, run them at different pressures and see how the water behaves. Water coming out taps without mesh will dribble out the side wheras the water from a tap with mesh will spread evenly accross the mesh, then move through... I dont know, thats just me and I could be wrong...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275677
Share on other sites

the mesh creates some sort of vibration that is required for the afm to read properly. taking this away will aparently LOSE performance...

I searched around and couldn't find anything regarding this vibration. Are you referring to compressor reversion?

Its been toted by many well known workshops and magazines that removing the mesh is one of the first mods one should do, if power was lost or drivability worsened, i think someone would have picked it up. There are many AFM's that don’t use mesh, WRX's are an example that come to mind.

Water coming out taps without mesh will dribble out the side wheras the water from a tap with mesh will spread evenly across the mesh, then move through...

The flow is more even but the mesh in that example is a lot more restrictive, not sure if you can compare pushing a medium 784 times more dense then air with 3bar behind it, to a AFM

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275910
Share on other sites

Removal of some unwanted material thru interaction/chemical reaction with a catalyst seems like quite a reasonable explanation to me... albeit unproven.

Introducing a source of turbulence and restriction for means of better flow makes less sense as an explanation as to why it is there.

No idea though, hence the question. My 2bob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275929
Share on other sites

this gives the AFM a more reliable reading. removing the mesh will give you a rough idle and will also give you bad fuel economy.

Have you seen / felt before and after, or are you assuming? A back to back would be interesting.

I would have thought running a pod filter right on the AFM would replicate the mesh's job. *thinks* wonder if pod setups would suffer these issues people talk of.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3275950
Share on other sites

Well...

Never effected economy on mine, it was superb.... idle... beautiful am afraid, never a complaint from me.

BUT, when it came to dyno time, one had the dreaded disease, so both were changed. There was merely a comment about the fact the mesh was missing, nothing more.

My next point is they would flow more air by simple dynamics at WOT, can't be disputed this part though. (so air+fuel increase)

My car before, did have abnormal power output when compared with a normal set-up, and no one could really say why... maybe..!!

I have to go with M Dave, its to help spread the incoming charge more evenly I think. Basically, the air input is spread more evenly, and thus the charge can be gauged more accurately. BUT at WOT, it has to get in the way, thus restriction!

Dark matter... probably cr@p in a more polite manner..!, but what happens when it eventually gets pulled in, but in bigger amounts as it becomes loosened by its sheer size/mass..??, do the turbos ignore this, 'cos its been through the 'Dark matter' filter?

To remove, or not to remove, that is the question. For 'tis better at low to mid throttle openings, yet can get in the way at WOT.

There, I had to have my say, feel better now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3281942
Share on other sites

The afm mesh deosnt' cause much restriction at all. If you think about it - its a really thin mesh.

Much more significant gains can be had else where e.g. your rippled air filter - turbo intake pipe. Each of the pipes as it leads onto a silicon join - there's an edge there.

I have listed just two things which would cause more restriction than the simple mesh.

Leave the mesh alone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3281985
Share on other sites

True, the average inlet has soo many restrictions to air -flow.

One way to prove the theory of restriction, if anyone would like to try it is this..

Place said mesh in way of air-flow, and see if it is pulled into the engine..!!, or better for the wallet, blow air at it, and see if you can move it, or do the maths for it. Work out its effective CSA, and then apply as a percentage, and then say it would not obstruct air-flow.

Aaaanyway, we digress.

Simple is easier flow of air, less twists and turns etc makes for better flow, no matter how you view it.

I have seen it removed, and I have to say there was(to my interpretation, at high RPM, better flow... the dyno showed it as such. The reason I think it is there is to aid even distribution of air incoming as a whole, by which the sensor can get a more accurate representation, and to keep

lumpy bits out too.

However, I fail to see that a coating of molybdenum, or anything else will make it disappear.

BTW, there are theorys about having a rough "Wall" to the inlet as being better for flow, rather than as we were lead to believe in the first place..!, look at Thorpeys swim-wear.!

Over..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179934-z32-afm/#findComment-3283193
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...