Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now I have a rb26 with wickid inturnals in it but it is out of an older R32 GTR so it has the crank with the small oil pump drive and a new standard oil pump on it.

To change this stuff to an R33 Crank and say a Trust/Jun/Nismo etc oil pump will this require the engine to come out? or can I get away with takin the sump and other things below the engine? Although the bearings are new, these will have to be changed as well as the crank was ground down slightly. Also with this all need balancing again??

Cheers for any help/info

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/
Share on other sites

its a engine out and crank out of engine deal because you have to machine down the surface to fit the crank collar.

RAJAB told me he never does the collar upgrades on his cars because he thinks the reason why this happens is because of crank float or something similar.

I still think its good insurance and i did the upgrade on my engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3275803
Share on other sites

yeah the vl uses a steel gear that runs on the crank. then onto the sinterd ones.

but its harmonics that kill the pumps. that and to tight bearing clearances.

so yes. almost a full engine strip to do it. ether way the motor has to be on a stand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3276432
Share on other sites

crank will definently have to come out, But wont need balancing again. as for the bearings. well you should change them, but i guess if your careful enough, ;you could possibly reuse them, although a few people may dissagree with this, and of course it isnt the best suggestion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3276444
Share on other sites

thanks guys

i knew that i had to change the crank...i was wanting to in the start! also with the oil pumps im looking at the should fit over the R33 GTR drive nicely!! Im NOT putting a collar on the crank(early R32 GTR) if i dont have to as i would prefer to pay the cash and buy a new crank!

i will have to replace the bearings if i replace the crank as the crank i have now has been ground down!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3276674
Share on other sites

Now I have a rb26 with wickid inturnals in it but it is out of an older R32 GTR so it has the crank with the small oil pump drive and a new standard oil pump on it.

Question

Why do you have "wickid" internals in a motor and no crank collar, and still using a stock pump ?

Doesnt make sense to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3278773
Share on other sites

yeah the vl uses a steel gear that runs on the crank. then onto the sinterd ones.

but its harmonics that kill the pumps. that and to tight bearing clearances.

so yes. almost a full engine strip to do it. ether way the motor has to be on a stand.

How do bearing clearances kill oil pumps? Or are you refering to crank end float as in thrust bearing clearances.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3279002
Share on other sites

Question

Why do you have "wickid" internals in a motor and no crank collar, and still using a stock pump ?

Doesnt make sense to me.

NOt meaning to be rude, but there have been lots of built motors in gtr's come over from japan that end up being stockx, without proof of internals i would be suspect unless you have good reason.(Heaps of these cars have had 800hp even 1000hp turbo systems on stock motors)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3279195
Share on other sites

i have proof as i have like all the recipts for my engine rebuild!

it is a long story as to why the std oil pump was used! lets just say i cant be bothered explain it to you guys, but one thing was i didnt give them a clear intension of what i wanted!!. i am now running eagle rods and acl race pistons and i see the only weak link being that oil pump and crank, wouldnt you say? well maybe the gearbox but a ppg box will fix that so will a triple plate clutch but we are in the wromg section to cover that stuff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3280237
Share on other sites

Unless you had another reason I wouldn't be pulling it out or apart. A collar or 33 crank is a good idea as part of a rebuild but a lot of money if you're paying someone to pull the engine out and strip it just to do that. If the oil pressure is ok I'd leave it as it is and pay a couple of grand extra on the mortgage or a holiday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180031-crank-oil-pump/#findComment-3289352
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...