Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Cap Problems

paul f

By paul f,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

paul f Enthusiast

paul f

Posted
Posted

ok well im in the process of tearing down my rb26 when i ran into this intresting problem. when removing the cam caps to free the camshaft from the head some (like 3 per exhaust/intake) are getting stuck!!! they are really, really hard to remove. they should unbolt with some easy and pretty much free float in the cap, but for some reason a couple are like stuck, i mean my electric impact gun(removes lugnuts with ease) is having trouble freeing them!! the only way i got them out was to push up on the bolt head as i used the impact gun!! it was redicules!!! the threads inside the head are fine! i took one of the good free floating cam bolts and tried to stick it in the cam cap that had a froozen bolt in it and the good bolt wouldn't fit through!! why would this be?? has this hapened to anyone eles???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180042-cam-cap-problems/
Share on other sites
paul f Enthusiast

paul f

Posted
  • Author
Posted

all the bolts are the same its the caps that are the problem!! if i take a bolt at fit in smoothly and with ease in one cap and then put it in one of the caps i had to force the bolt out of the new bolt wont fit! what if to fix the problem i was to sand the bolt down smoother or drill out the cap bolt holes a little bigger would that hurt at all?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

sounds to me like either the cam is bent, or possibly the bolts or maybe (big maybe) the caps themselves. when you removed them you should have been lossening them in the correct order and lossening them bit by bit, not all at once.

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

I've had issues with mine in the past, seem to be a common occurance

Usually 3-4 days with WD40 left soaking, put on each morning gets them out

If not though, be careful, they break easily, I'd suggest taking one of the bolts to a bolt/washers shop and get them replaced with the same thread

I think the reason they get jammed up is a heat and expansion thing, so best option is to replace them, I paid like $0.30c for a bolt the same thread and height, in black too

kiwi32 Contributor

kiwi32

Posted
Posted

when i pulled the head apart on my r32 most of the cam cap bolts were seized some were so bad they had to be pressed out once the caps were removed. I thought it was because the motor had a lot of sludge in it from a severe lack of servicing. a reconditioner told me it is a common problem.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

yeah very common. especally 32. moisture gets in and the cap corodes to the bolt. just undo them if you can and bang them out. also the r32s dont have numbers on the caps. so mark them respectivly.

just wiggle them back and forth slowly. dont go fast cos it will heat up and the bolt will break in the cap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...