Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS-t 1989/90 ?

101,XXX KM’s

RB20DET

SPEC M

ENGINE:

FULL 3” EXHAUST consisting of..

- BOS Split Front & Dump Pipe

- 3” Genuine Metal Cat catalyst converter

- 3” Blitz NUR Spec R Cat-back

Apexi Pod filter

Custom Carbon Fibre Air Box

With Cold air Feed

R33 GTS-t/RB25DET Turbo Upgrade ( Came off ‘94 r33 gtst with 80,000kms standard car turbo in perfect condition)

Greddy Oil Catch Can

Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler (takes standard piping route)

Greddy Adjustable Cam Gears Exhaust & Inlet

100,000km Service just performed by RE customs @ 97,000km

-Greddy Heavy Duty timing belt

All idle bearings, water pump, power steering, AC, etc belts changed.

Blitz SBC Spec S Boost Controller

Blitz Radiator Cap

Nismo Oil Cap

Century Battery

Engine Oil always changed every 5,000kms usually a little bit before with Motul Chrono & New K&N Oil Filter and always has Motul engine flush through it every oil change too.

BODY:

Vertex Front Bumper

Vertex Side Skirts

Vertex Wide Body Front Fenders

Rear Wing Removed

Also Have Vertex Rear Bumper but needs to be altered doesn’t fit properly

Over-all the paint condition isn’t great…

INSIDE:

Greddy Turbo Timer-Silver

Greddy Intelligent Informeter

Nismo Chrome Gear Knob

Sparco Hand Brake Knob

Sparco Foot Pedals (ACL, Brake, Clutch pdls)

Factory Skyline Floor Matts

HKS Boost Gauge in Carbon Fibre Cup

Blue Suede Door inserts, glove box & centre console

Silver Trims

Digital Climate Control

Pioneers 6” Splits with Tweeters

Kenwood Head Unit with Remote

Initial D Throw Over Seat Covers- Black

DRIVELINE/SUSPENSION/BRAKES:

GAB Adjustable Shocks

BEE-r Pineapples

RDA Slotted Rotors

Bendix Ultimate Pads

C’s Short Shifter genuine

Excedy Heavy Duty Button Clutch With Higher Clamp load than the regular one handles a little more power, only 2,000kms old.

Flywheel machined at the Same time

Rear Main Seal Changed with Clutch

Cusco Strut Braces Front & Rear

Steering Rack Boots just replaced

WHEELS:

Choice of either 16” R33 GTS-t or S15 Silvia rims,

The gold 18”s on there now aren’t mine, if they were they’d stay on the car..

For the age of the car its in great condition expect for the paint, haven’t had any problems with the car out of the ordinary when I first brought it I had an inspection done and the mechanic was surprised how great the engine was for its age and said the gearbox was brand new in it compression test was also done with 150psi on all cyl. Also mechanics said its in great condition as well..

Its upsetting to sell the car but I really need to get a Ute for work and I don’t want to keep racking up the miles on this one , I’d love to keep it but just cant afford to, as I’m only a apprentice …

There’s probably a few other bits and pieces done to it but cant think at the moment..

9 months rego left

Looking for $11,500

VIC S/E suburbs

0409331833

thanks

PS:

i have a heap of standard parts and a few aftermarket bits laying around that we could arrainge into the deal

Edited by gt-t_r34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

Pics:

heres the new pics nice and fresh just took them before!

IMGP0050.jpg

IMGP0052.jpg

IMGP0053.jpg

IMGP0054.jpg

IMGP0055.jpg

IMGP0056.jpg

IMGP0057.jpg

lastscan.jpg

this dyno graph isnt correct as they had just put the cams in and the timing wasnt correct so was running laggier and with less power..

so that was 176rw kw @ .75bar

Edited by gt-t_r34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/#findComment-3282726
Share on other sites

ill have some new pics on the w/e. went to look at the new car yesterday hopefully have some interest soon..

Theres 3 other things i thought of thats on the car:

Page guard alarm with remote start

Clear front indicators

Project MU resivoiur covers

Edited by gt-t_r34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/#findComment-3287173
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

thanks for that buddy great way to start your adventures on sau :( keep it to yourself :laughing-smiley-014:

your friend oviously had no idea 'this is 4 wheel drive isnt it' pfft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/#findComment-3368187
Share on other sites

my mate ask u want condition paint was in u said it good apart from front bar he said the orignal paint on it is the roof and driver door and the other door has been replace and a 2year old could of done a better job painting it shit box does not even come close to wat it is u so when people call tell them the truth then they do not travel all the way for nothin and put pics up of all the f u ck ed up parts of the car they will see it anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/#findComment-3368359
Share on other sites

i beleive those are sufficent... i told him more about the body condiction than that, in the add it says the paint is the only problem with the car... people should come have a look and make up there own mind.. by the sounds of things your friend is only after a clean body if he had of read the add before he came out he would have figured this is not the car for him... looks ok but goes great was more what i was after some peope are different.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180523-fs-r32-gtst/#findComment-3379456
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...