Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The jerking on downshift is basically independent of pucks. It's all a matter of driving style. The blip is called "heel-toeing'. The reason you get the jerk is that the engine and gearbox are not spinning at the same speed for the gear you are selecting. Heel-toeing matches the engine speed to the gearbox (road) speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3289078
Share on other sites

3 puk - http://clutchnet.com/photos/3button_solid02.jpg

5 puk - http://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/images/PukPanel.gif

as u can see, the more puk's the greater contact area on the flywheel and easier to drive it will be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3289966
Share on other sites

feel is best described as where in the peddle travel the clutch starts engaging and how suddenly.

With OEM clutches... they have no feel really... once you get a button you'll learn all about feel for the clutch :rofl:

thats for sure..

I use an Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin plate.....kinda crazy if u drive it in heavy traffic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3292113
Share on other sites

ok.

i guess i have a final question.

Out of the clutches below, which one is the easiest to drive??? and when I down gear, there will not have a shudder...

-5 puk ceramic button

-9 puk ceramic button

-cushion button

select one from the above. the main important point is that I do not want the car to shudder when down gear...

Cheers. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3296889
Share on other sites

Hear this

ALL CERAMIC/BRASS MATERIALS WILL SHUDDER ON DOWNSHIFT IF ENGINE REVS ARE NOT MATCHED!!

Its due to the nature of the materials used...doest matter how many pucks or whatever. if you do not rev match, then your pretty much slipping the clutch everytime you downchange.

But, as for most driveable.. a 9 puck cushioned button will be the most driveable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3297307
Share on other sites

Hong, going back a few posts a cushioned clutch has nothing to do with a sprug center rather a cushioning between each side of the clutch plates. A conventional button uses a single sheet of metal with puck either adhered or riveted to it. The Cushioned plates use two plates with a "spring" in-between. This "spring" takes the initial shock of the engagement rather then other driveline components such as gearboxes and diffs :laugh:

Bacially if the vehicle is mainly a daily driver, and a puck clutch is your preference, I would strongly suggest using a cushioned item.

The sprung center is purely a sound/vibration dampener.

If you need any further information or pricing on Genuine Exedy Clutch Kits drop me a line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3297558
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • What type of track driving will you be doing?  Do you have a set of class rules you need to abide by that will limit your rim / tyre width?
    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
    • hahahaa @GTSBoy that is my last resort. Like use a cardboard and cut it using the indicator as a reference. But I was winging my luck to see anyone had a spare bumper because drawing the outline off the hole is always easier and less chance of mucking it up
×
×
  • Create New...