Jump to content
SAU Community

What Turbo Do I Have?

BANGN

By BANGN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no way can i see anything there is just too much shit in teh way and doesnt look very easy to pull it all off.

il go have a look at that exhaust number but in the mean time the actuator has a stamp on it that says 242x02 in black writing and its stamped ASN79 or somthn

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

4513 pretty sure. the 4, 5 and 3 is a definate confirmation but the 1 sort of looks like a V not sure, thats teh best angle i can get.

45v3.jpg

really looks like a V but not sure.. so i guess if it was that makes it a 45V3 which yeh is off a rb25, but there is a 45V1, 45V2 as well isnt there? whats the dif between them

Edited by YEHBOI
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

on what engine?

on an RB25.. yes.. it's too much.

on a smaller rb20 it should be just about as much as you'd want to put through a ceramic exhaust wheeled turbo.

all the pics you've posted have had 20V seca in the name so you could be putting this on a 4age in which case, I've seen people put 17+ through that turbo on those engines.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

the RB25 is 500cc larger in capacity.

it can push out x amount more air so to speak.

so people say that the max safe boost setting for a stock R33 gtst is about 10-12psi.

and on a car that is 500cc smaller in capacity, it can handle more boost to put the same amount of strain on the turbo as it does on a lower boost setting when on the RB25.

Also, the RB20 has lower compression than the RB25 which also means more PSI to bring the power/heat to the same levels.

f*k that was a messy post.

Edited by GTST
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
its on my R32 GTST - RB20.

why the psi differences? is that due to the fact a RB25 puts out alot more exhaust heat than the RB20?

At 10PSi on a 2.5Litre, compared to a 2L, you're putting through more air. Which means turbo spins faster, which means more heat in the turbo.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
the RB25 is 500cc larger in capacity.

it can push out x amount more air so to speak.

so people say that the max safe boost setting for a stock R33 gtst is about 10-12psi.

and on a car that is 500cc smaller in capacity, it can handle more boost to put the same amount of strain on the turbo as it does on a lower boost setting when on the RB25.

Also, the RB20 has lower compression than the RB25 which also means more PSI to bring the power/heat to the same levels.

f*k that was a messy post.

Well said. :/

Makes sense when you say it that way.

Thanks,

Abu

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
At 10PSi on a 2.5Litre, compared to a 2L, you're putting through more air. Which means turbo spins faster, which means more heat in the turbo.

which also means more power but that's a different point.

on one of my RB20's I bolted an RB25 turbo to, I had the usual mods except FMIC.

with the exhaust and filter being free flowing, and no boost control, the stock car would boost to 11psi. (stock is 10)

Once the RB25 turbo went on and I used a boost controller to bring it to 11 psi (I used the stock actuator instead of the rb20 one so it had 6psi stock), I put it on a dyno and it made 153rwkw.

I think a stock R32 makes around 110rwkw.

an RB25 with stock turbo at 10psi (if it isn't missing and spluttering like a shitbox) will have around the 170rwkw.

an RB20 with stock turbo at stock 10psi but with intake and exhaust mods will have around 130rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...