Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow. That's not much power!? Must be a very conservative tune..

No.

From experience (ie been there done that) thats about right

could of leaned on it a little and seen 160rwkw's ish

BOS 3" split dump pipe 12rwkw

Catco Metal Cat 3rwkw

Trust Power Extreme 2 cat back zorst 10rwkw

K&N Panel filter 2rwkw

R34 Intercooler 0

GTR Fuel Pump 0

AFC Neo computer 15rwkw

SITC computer 8rwkw

say thats around 50rwkw in extra zoomph as a guestimate, add in the 110rwkw standard, at 10psi.............

nice safe tune and a conservative power reading is better then 15kw higher and leaning on the engine.

my 2c

bet it feels nice to drive hey !!

nice work, enjoy it

Tune is as I expected too, minus the SITC so could get up to around 160 if pushed it. I will get a FMIC eventually no doubt anyway.

It is very nice, I even had to 'rush' to work as the exhaust install took longer than expected. A nice excuse to open it up a bit :(:P

There are so many speed cameras on Sydney roads though .. hope I didn't make a donation, spent enough today already !

OK, the results are in and the winner is .....

Tangles :(

Max power 152.9Kw at the rears running just under 10psi. This is a Series 1, not neo motor by the way. And an auto :P

Goldzilla ... sorry I missed your post as my PC at home is dead and I went down there first thing this morning. Is yours the green one coming in for a 'trial fitting' next week ?? :)

Speaking of fitting, the Power Extreme cat back zorst needed a fair bit of manipulation to line up unfortunately. I guess that is the price of mixing and matching local dump pipe and cat with jap exhaust. A word or warning for others I guess, the BOS dump and Catco cat may not line up exactly like factory

Hey Stu, nice result. No worries about meeting up this morning, it's all good.

Yeah, that's me getting the trial fitting done on my car - I've got the JustJap combined split dump/front pipe going on mine, and seeing as a few people have had some issues getting theirs on their cars, I figured I'd best get them to do a test-fit first so I can either get a refund or sell it if indeed it doesn't go on.

I'll be getting a baseline dyno run done first, then if all goes well, the new dump pipe will be getting drilled for an exhaust temperature probe to be fitted, then the install, then a quick run on the dyno again to see if any gains have been made.

I'm not really expecting much of a power gain, as I haven't yet got any way of tweaking ignition, fuel or anything else. All my car has is a 3" cat-back exhaust and a manual box (which should provide a minor gain in itself due to slightly less slippage). If I get improved response, then I'm quite happy for now. Suspension tweaks are next, then the hunt for an FMIC and computer.

Hey Stu, nice result. No worries about meeting up this morning, it's all good.

Yeah, that's me getting the trial fitting done on my car - I've got the JustJap combined split dump/front pipe going on mine, and seeing as a few people have had some issues getting theirs on their cars, I figured I'd best get them to do a test-fit first so I can either get a refund or sell it if indeed it doesn't go on.

I'll be getting a baseline dyno run done first, then if all goes well, the new dump pipe will be getting drilled for an exhaust temperature probe to be fitted, then the install, then a quick run on the dyno again to see if any gains have been made.

I'm not really expecting much of a power gain, as I haven't yet got any way of tweaking ignition, fuel or anything else. All my car has is a 3" cat-back exhaust and a manual box (which should provide a minor gain in itself due to slightly less slippage). If I get improved response, then I'm quite happy for now. Suspension tweaks are next, then the hunt for an FMIC and computer.

The boys there are very helpful and professional, so they won't BS you if it doesn't look like it will fit.

The muffler shop had to heat and bend the BOS dump a little to get it to fit also, plus the flanges on the catco cat are a little off and it has a small leak. Shows that nothing is perfect out there unfortunately, especially for stageas :thumbsup:

well thats definately one thing Im not entirely sure of (never driven a manual rb25det)

but its a theory I work towards.

ie my Stagea at the moment has say 195rwkw (was 190 @ 14psi with restictive muffler at last tune), if it was manual I have no doubt you could add 10rwkw to that and boast it had over 200 at the rears.

my next tune in 2.5 weeks time @ 16psi should net around say 210rwkw, surely thatd be more towards 225-230rwkw with a manual ? dunno, but thats what my readings on this site suggest.

* tips hat

* munches on jellybeans

* farts, oops sorry did I type that

For those interested, the difference between awkw and rwkw (with the front shaft removed) is ~20kw.

This was on 2 different dynos so give or take 5kw or something...

It helps to know when comparing power/weight ratios with other rwd cars. Also in the stagea's favour is the excellent 1st gear ratio (even in the auto) and 4.3 diff ratio, = great acceleration off the line, at the cost of fuel economy. Of course you cant compare cars perfectly this way but it is a (very) rough estimation...

And for what its worth, its also been proven that the Stagea will be quicker in AWD mode than in RWD with the front shaft removed, despite the higher kw reading for RWD.

So I'm guessing a RWD-mode stagea (assuming same weight, which RWD-only stageas aren't...) with 200rwkw would be a close match for an AWD stagea with 175-180awkw. Not taking the driver into account - this is just purely about comparing power outputs of similar cars.

None of the above can be used as a strict conversion, but it is a fairly close estimate IMO. :bunny:

For those interested, the difference between awkw and rwkw (with the front shaft removed) is ~20kw.

This was on 2 different dynos so give or take 5kw or something...

It helps to know when comparing power/weight ratios with other rwd cars. Also in the stagea's favour is the excellent 1st gear ratio (even in the auto) and 4.3 diff ratio, = great acceleration off the line, at the cost of fuel economy. Of course you cant compare cars perfectly this way but it is a (very) rough estimation...

And for what its worth, its also been proven that the Stagea will be quicker in AWD mode than in RWD with the front shaft removed, despite the higher kw reading for RWD.

So I'm guessing a RWD-mode stagea (assuming same weight, which RWD-only stageas aren't...) with 200rwkw would be a close match for an AWD stagea with 175-180awkw. Not taking the driver into account - this is just purely about comparing power outputs of similar cars.

None of the above can be used as a strict conversion, but it is a fairly close estimate IMO. :rolleyes:

it's exactly as the thread title states: Bingo. It's useful purely as a guage of %power increase provided you stick to the same dyno. It gives you an idea, but no dyno reading is definitive.

Alright, I had mine in on the dyno at Unique today, and confirmed that the JustJap combined split dump pipe and front pipe does NOT fit, which was rather annoying...

Who wants to guess how much my output was? It was leaning out up high when the high boost kicks in around 5,000rpm or whatever...

mod list plz?

:blink:

118rwkw?

Hmm, Major Tangles, there's not much to say here.

  • Manual conversion
  • 3" cat-back exhaust
  • R33 series 1 (steel compressor wheel) turbo, which was a drop-in replacement for when I blew my turbo back in November '05

...and as far as I know, that about covers the mods. I haven't actually made any performance mods to it since I bought it back in October 2005.

Any other guesses?

137.43972

I'm guessing none of the boys told you anything, Andrew? I was gonna exclude you from guessing, because I thought you might have seen/been told of the results.

Nice result for yours though! :blink:

Hmm, I was expecting 125-130rwkW,

It was...

Dynorun.jpg

:rofl: It had me stunned too! Lean-out power FTW! But risk of melted pistons (or worse) FTL!!!

New fuel pump coming up in a few weeks, and until then it's cruise, no major loads, and no big revs...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...