Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ron: he isn't adjusting his cam timing, only his ignition timing. don't confuse him.

flash89: a timing light and small socket to loosen off and adjust the cas. maybe an allen key to rip off the coil cover so that you can get at the no1 coil. Depending on the timing light you are using you might have to get a plug lead off another car, and fit it between no1 coil and no1 spark plug to get a correct pickup. Thats all you will need.

On a motor warmed to operating temp, an rb20det should be set to 15deg. Thats looking at the timing marks behind the crank pulley viewed from the top. Same idea as setting the timing on an old carby car so get someone who would know about those to help you.

The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

hope that helps.

james.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3305147
Share on other sites

the consult timing does not take into account whether the distributor/cas is set correctly. so you CANT use it to check that timing is set properly. the timing value is an ECU output, not an input, it doesnt know if you have advanced or retarded timing at dizzy/cas (which is why you can actually advance your timing without ecu compensating)

all you can use consult for is to use the timing lock mode (i think conzult free has this) to make adjusting timing easier by making sure the ecu doesnt make timing jump around. you then have to confirm that the timing light reads the locked value (15?).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3313329
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

well i fiiiiiinally finished my 100k service and she started beautifully first time (well first time after i pushed the CAS plug back in properly...) - thought i did have to tighten the distributor belt cos it was whining like my girlfriend after i've forgotten an anniversary or something.

i bought a $20 timing light from supercheap. so to do the timing i just take the coil pack cover off, connect the timing light so it's in 'serial' with the no.1 coil and point at the harmonic balancer while the engine is running and make sure it matches up with the 4th mark on the balancer?

if so, i might just dab a bit of paint pen on that mark to make it easier for me to spot yeah?

it's odd that nissan made the 0 mark orange and not the 15 mark....

any feedback on this technique? didn't want to start a new topic cos there's a few out there but none of them with definitive answers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3337305
Share on other sites

The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

Mine does the same.

Try double looping the wire through the timing lights pickup; does the trick for mine. :closedeyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3345767
Share on other sites

ok, I'll give that a try..

Have to redo my timing before I can drive it again. Pulled the cas and timing cover off to inspect and test in preparation for my parts purchases. Stock bumpsticks unfortunately. Compression tests across the board were min 175 max 182.. thank god for that.

New 2860-5's and tomei b's to buy now.. :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3346794
Share on other sites

:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347052
Share on other sites

:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

but i have had it at 30 and 40 and it runs ok?

really in all the fiddling i have lost the original setting having moved the cas to all sort of positions

maybe it should be 30 and ive made it go to 15?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347087
Share on other sites

If its a true 30-40degree's then once you touch the accel and it pushes in another 25degree's advance that would be a total of 65degree's advance and you would definitely feel both the lack of power and hear the exhaust as it slightly misses.

Idling on much more than 20degree's idle becomes rough and it begins to have a slight half miss/pop.

If your cam timing is correct set the bolt centred with respect to the cas and that is approx 15-20degree's advance.

If you have to dial in what looks like excessive advance or retard (hence not near centre) then your cam timing is out.

Have a play you will learn to hear how advanced or retarded it is running. A few tell tale signs are how smooth the car is running, idles lower, idles higher, does it pop/have a slight miss & the note of the exhaust. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347102
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...