Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ron: he isn't adjusting his cam timing, only his ignition timing. don't confuse him.

flash89: a timing light and small socket to loosen off and adjust the cas. maybe an allen key to rip off the coil cover so that you can get at the no1 coil. Depending on the timing light you are using you might have to get a plug lead off another car, and fit it between no1 coil and no1 spark plug to get a correct pickup. Thats all you will need.

On a motor warmed to operating temp, an rb20det should be set to 15deg. Thats looking at the timing marks behind the crank pulley viewed from the top. Same idea as setting the timing on an old carby car so get someone who would know about those to help you.

The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

hope that helps.

james.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3305147
Share on other sites

the consult timing does not take into account whether the distributor/cas is set correctly. so you CANT use it to check that timing is set properly. the timing value is an ECU output, not an input, it doesnt know if you have advanced or retarded timing at dizzy/cas (which is why you can actually advance your timing without ecu compensating)

all you can use consult for is to use the timing lock mode (i think conzult free has this) to make adjusting timing easier by making sure the ecu doesnt make timing jump around. you then have to confirm that the timing light reads the locked value (15?).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3313329
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

well i fiiiiiinally finished my 100k service and she started beautifully first time (well first time after i pushed the CAS plug back in properly...) - thought i did have to tighten the distributor belt cos it was whining like my girlfriend after i've forgotten an anniversary or something.

i bought a $20 timing light from supercheap. so to do the timing i just take the coil pack cover off, connect the timing light so it's in 'serial' with the no.1 coil and point at the harmonic balancer while the engine is running and make sure it matches up with the 4th mark on the balancer?

if so, i might just dab a bit of paint pen on that mark to make it easier for me to spot yeah?

it's odd that nissan made the 0 mark orange and not the 15 mark....

any feedback on this technique? didn't want to start a new topic cos there's a few out there but none of them with definitive answers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3337305
Share on other sites

The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

Mine does the same.

Try double looping the wire through the timing lights pickup; does the trick for mine. :closedeyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3345767
Share on other sites

ok, I'll give that a try..

Have to redo my timing before I can drive it again. Pulled the cas and timing cover off to inspect and test in preparation for my parts purchases. Stock bumpsticks unfortunately. Compression tests across the board were min 175 max 182.. thank god for that.

New 2860-5's and tomei b's to buy now.. :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3346794
Share on other sites

:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347052
Share on other sites

:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

but i have had it at 30 and 40 and it runs ok?

really in all the fiddling i have lost the original setting having moved the cas to all sort of positions

maybe it should be 30 and ive made it go to 15?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347087
Share on other sites

If its a true 30-40degree's then once you touch the accel and it pushes in another 25degree's advance that would be a total of 65degree's advance and you would definitely feel both the lack of power and hear the exhaust as it slightly misses.

Idling on much more than 20degree's idle becomes rough and it begins to have a slight half miss/pop.

If your cam timing is correct set the bolt centred with respect to the cas and that is approx 15-20degree's advance.

If you have to dial in what looks like excessive advance or retard (hence not near centre) then your cam timing is out.

Have a play you will learn to hear how advanced or retarded it is running. A few tell tale signs are how smooth the car is running, idles lower, idles higher, does it pop/have a slight miss & the note of the exhaust. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181729-timing/#findComment-3347102
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...