Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno whats wrong. Driving well one day. Not starting the next morning.

Here are the symptoms. mind you i dont know what everything is under the bonnet.

Cant start the car. at this point it seems like a typical battery failure. not enough voltage. and seems to need replacing.

Hicas light is on once i jump start the car. Power steering seems to be off.

Hicas light flickers and then goes away when i accelerate enough and power steering then returns

When i brake the Voltage on the battery Goes from 12 volts to about 4-6 volts and power steering goes off.

When i accelerate the Voltage on the battery goes back up to 12 volts and power steering goes back on.

This mind boggles me. please help me figure out whats wrong. otherwise ill just have to head to the mech. tho i prefer to fix my owns problems... when i know what they are!

Help!

mabye a grounding problem in the hicas unit, have you touched anything reacently?? has the hicas ever been played with if so mabye a grounding nut or bolt wasnt tighetened enough and has vibrated off?

im just guessing i have no clue just something to check

Check ALL the front belts, FAN, ALT, Power Steering, sounds like they are slipping bad and maybe battery is stuffed as well?

LOOK CLOSELY AT YOUR TERMINOLOGY AND CLARIFY your symptoms.

Skylines are EXTREMELY sensitive to voltage. If you sudeenly lose voltage to any of the ECUs floating around in the car, they will start to misbehave.

Replace the battery. And check the alternator and the fan belt.

Hey dude sucks about the issue.

your HICAS light might be coming on because you are running low on power steering fuild, they used a shared resivour. what you need to do is get some power steering fuild from super cheap or repco and top up the fuild level.

your power steering fuild is located towards the front of the car just next to your front passenger side wheel. its like a medium sized can looking thing with red fuild in it.

in regards to the voltage issue, because of the high reving nature of the RB engines the alternator wont start turning over until you hit 2000+ RPM so give it a solid blip and see what volatge is carries maybe?

good luck.

Had the exact same fault last night in my car.

Threatened to not start this mornig but did go so being the lazy unadventuruos type

I took it straight to the auto-electricain.

Turns out it was the alternator worn bushes or some such thing.

Alternator to be serviced no major dilemma or cost.

Hopefully it's nothing more sinister in your case.

Definitely check your battery first, then the grounding (negative terminal), and then your alternator - one of the diodes could be busted (problem happened to my Bluebird - the only way i got it home was too keep the engine revving as it suddenly failed) - the best solution is to buy a reconditioned or a new alternator.

I have had similar problems - turned out it was the wiring to the battery was corroded. There are a multitude of connectors on the positive cable going to the battery. touch them to see if they are warm - if so probably a bad connection, disconnect and clean them out.

good luck

Hey everyone. thanks for the replys and all the help.

here's what i've found so far.

I've checked the belts and even spray a 'belt grip' spray on them and it doesn't look like they're slipping.

I found that when the jumper leads were still connected to the 'other car's' battery, the car worked fine without revving.

so i replaced the battery ($15 for a used but still good 480 battery)...

Problems fixed. or so i thought. it was running normally again. the voltage remained at a constant 12V. then a few days later. voltage goes to about 9V and the hicas light comes back on. Yep. same problem.

Im either going to source a used & working alternator or just get my current one fixed.

does anyone know how much it costs to get my alternator reconditioned... or bushes fixed?

if you need to jump the car every time to start it, the battery is not charging. Make sure all connections are tight and jump it, drive for 30 min or longer, and that should be that. find a new alternator if that doesnt work, or a reco, either way you wont be installing it the auto electrician will

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got a used replacement alternator like a week ago... and i put it in myself. That was a lil tough, only because its a bit of tight place to get to under the bonnet but it wasn't too hard. I could do it again, easy.

Problem's fixed. been driving for a few days now, its recharged the 2nd battery that i ran flat, All good! and costing me a total of $40 for alternator, and $15 for battery. battery was a good condition used 470 CCA. =P im happy again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...