Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this dude ever coming up ? Why don't you just get Dalby to tune it ? He'll manage it easily on a lightly modded sr20. Do you need Dr drift for the Nistune software on factory ecu or something ? If not it's not like it's rocket science on a power fc. That said most good tuners I've found tune for good power and that's it. They say lets get the numbers and forget about everything else like idle and light cruise stuff. Good tuners get really lazy because the can get away with it. Gotta remember to do everything you can't do it in a couple of hours no matter who the tuner is - it takes multiple tunes to get a factory like result in drivability and fuel economy because there are so many load/rpm points to adjust. On a power fc you've got 400 fuel points and 400 ignition points - try adjusting all those in two hours! This is why I've come to the conclusion you'll only ever get a totally tuned ecu after lots and lots of time, hence why I'm tuning my cars myself from now on.

On another note the V spec is in the 11s after me tuning it.

As far as I know Dr drift is a workshop, not one guy. You should just get a power fc instead of nistune if you want to keep modding car into future. Nistune isn't a "chip", it is reburning your original ecu eprom chip with a modified tune. If any minor adjustments need to be done you need the nistune software all over again to do anything, like if your car idles different or dentonates when it gets to summer. With a power fc any small changes can be made on the fly in real time and with the hand controller you have access to your engine vitals at all times, like actually knowing when your car is detonating, injector duty cycle ect. Also factory Nissan ecu has about 256 load points for fuel map, apexi has 400 so the resolution is better. Same for ignition map.

I have heard good things about the nistune as it accesses the computer at a factory level but would only go there if your plans are very mild for the car, no big turbos or map sensor only tunes.

Edited by BK

dr.drift is a workshop and the owner tuner who started it is called sam, ie dr.drift.

the newer nistune or whatever dr.drift uses have a daughter board and allow live tuning from a laptop with out burning multiple chips.

there are cars running around with 300kw out of a chiped ecu without the need to go for a powerfc.

in my opinion a power fc is only needed if you are going to go a de-jetro setup with no afm.

my aim for the car is a responsive 230kw at max

Nistune will do the job for your application and that's all well and good wanting to stick with the factory ecu but my question still stands - what happens if you need to tweak/correct something ? Your stuffed cause you need nistune to get back into it, and still you'll have no idea when your car is knocking (which is the best part of a power fc) or any other vital engine info. Your kept in the dark with what your car is doing. You are in the middle of Australia and thinking you'll never need to access the ecu again is naive at best.

That's so bullshit saying you should only go for an apexi power fc if you want d jetro though, there's much more to them than that. What experience have you had with performance cars to say that ?

Also why all the hype about this dr. drift ? I've never heard of any of the cars they've worked on doing anything special, unless they're into drifting (which is a load of wank). Martin Donnon who tuned my R32 from Willall racing said he'd come up to tune cars if I could get 4 or 5 people together - and he's far more reputable than dr. drift and has the cars/results to back him up. Tuned the first 8 sec GTR in the country and is a pioneer on the new R35.

Which leads me back to this - if your just going for a mild tune and don't need a guru tuner, just get an apexi and get Dallas to tune it is he's more than capable of doing a tune for your lightly modded car.

I'll be very suprised if this dr. drift actually ever comes here. Who's cars is he going to tune to make this trip worth it ?

I know Martin would be very bored if he came here.

Edited by BK

the hype is that he can tune a wide variety of cars and has agreed to come here. if you can get someone else into town to tune my car before dr.drift gets here then im keen for that.

and as for engine inf you can get the nistune software on a laptop and run it in your car if you want to see knock levels and what not if thats what you wanna do.

im not looking for a hardcore car that is modded of its head. just a few simple mods and thats it

and anyway im not here to argue about what ecu is best. i think both have their place in the car world. if i had the money i would have an apexi pfc but it doesnt matter. the nistune will do what i need it to do.

on another note i have some new rims on the way :D

That's cool, but heaps of people have agreed to come and never did. Is there an actual date ? If not it won't happen.

In regards to engine destroying detonation, I'm talking about detonation after the car has been tuned down the track, not while it's being tuned. You won't know it's happening with the stock ecu as it will just retard your timing and screw around with your tune, making you lose power. An apexi will not do this, but will kill your engine if you have too much timing. The power fc is much more performance orientated than using a stock ecu - no matter how you tune it.

Martin said 4 to 5 cars and he's here. I put money on it too that he has the ability to tune more cars than DD. This guy has software for bloody everything - from shitty fords/holdens right up to Lamborghini and Ferrari. He's a freak.

Is this dr drift dude definitely coming on a certain date or not ? I don't wanna get Martin here if something else has definitely been organised. Also, how much are you prepared to pay ? I don't think he'd even bother unless your talking over $800 per tune which sounds like your not gonna pay, or else you wouldn't be insisting on tuning stock ecu's. Also we'd have to talk to Dallas as he'll want money on top of that for the time on the dyno. It's not gonna work out cheap to pay someone else to tune cars in front of Dallas on his own dyno. I'd prefer if some more hardcore modded cars as well to present for tuning rather than just pod filter and exhausts on Nissans. He'll be like "why doesn't your guy up there just do these ? Why do I need to come up for that ?"

My point I've been trying to make all along though is GIVE DALLAS A GO, he's not stupid and would probably invest in Nistune if any of you guys gave him half a chance.

Edited by BK

i do not want to get dallas to tune anything of mine. im not sure if he has gotten better but i know of a few cars that have had issues after being tuned by dallas.

I had my integra tuned by him and it was always going back for something at some stage. it would not cold start easily and used way too much fuel let alone the problems i had with vtec engaging ect ect. that has left a sour taste in my mouth in regards to his tuning.

Dr.Drift will be here once he gets back from his darwin trip and sorts out a couple cars in his workshop. i was on the phone to him today and he has looked at flights and spoken to dallas.

$800 for a tune is far to much as most cars in this town already have tunes but just need adjusting.

If you arnt going to get anything done by dr.drift or make an attempt to get a decent tuner into alice springs then why bother going on about it??

if you can tune your own car then congratulations to you but there are other cars here that would like to get dr.drift into town.

dr.drift has an excellent reputation on nissansilvia.com and his customers stand by him so thats good enough for me.

**edited cause i cant spell**

Edited by Mr.Msquito

I said I'd help get a GOOD tuner here no worries as he already agreed when I was in Adelaide, so don't get snotty with me. Got nothing against this dr drift at all and he's probably a good tuner, just heard all this crap before about this guy coming here. I said I'd get Martin up, but I said you guys wouldn't be able to afford him didn't I ? And I was right. Sounds like you and your mates want the world for nothing. What you want $200 tunes now ?

I don't know who I'm talking to here but your obviously in the know far more than me. You've owned an integra - says it all really - You must know what your talking about.

Edited by BK

i never said i knew everything at all...... i said that i prefer the nistune over a powerfc for my setup and that i didnt want my car tuned by dallas from past experiences i have had with him in my integra.

if you have nothing against dr.drift then why all the fuss?

Dr.Drift is busy and will be here as soon as he gets the time to. yes he was supposed to come up around this time but had family things to attend to. the other times before that it was talked about but because i was organising it with him to tune my car and it wasnt ready so we put it off.

i dont claim to know how to tune a car at all but i know enough to make my own mind up about what ecu will suit my application and what wont. i have done hours of reading on what engine managments are out there and i chose nistune because it keeps all the factory sensors and has all the aircon idle loops and what not already on it. Just because i dont have 2 gtr's in my shed doesnt mean i dont know how things work. we're not all made of money like some so cant spend $1000+ on a powerfc when for half the price we get something equally as good.

you dont need to pay $900 for a touch up tune on a lightly modded car.

Man, I feel like I'm talking to a pissed off teenager. You're hardly in a position to say how much tuning is worth as you wouldn't have a clue by the sounds of it. How many tuners have you been to ? Did you read anything I've said ? I've been around the traps a fair bit a don't just PAY people to do everything for me. Read as much as you want - practice is better than just theory. These forums are a breeding ground for bullshit.

I'm not made of money, but I have worked bloody hard and applied myself to my trade to get where I am. Maybe you should do the same...

Edited by BK

pissed off no, annoyed that other people think that they know everything and are always right yes.

i havent payed for stuff all to be done to my car. Just about everything done to my car has been done by me. sure i might have had help from carmelo at times but i replaced my engine by myself, swapped my turbo multiple times, done my clutch along with lots of other stuff. like you said practice is better than theory and im learning along the way./

i have been to a few tuners in adelaide along with dallas here so its not like its something totaly new to me. i think you need to read what you have been saying yourself and realise all i originally said is that i want dr.drift to come here and tune my car and i dont want a powerfc. $900 for a tune is to much for what i need for my car. all i need is a fine tune to adjust the AFR and that should be about it. thats the good thing with keeping all factory sensors

anyway i dont care anymore because your not going to listen to what im saying or my opinion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...