Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just wondering what u guys think the best way to find leaks in your pipeing as ive got some pinhole leaks that i need to find and fix once and for all. I thought about using a motorbike tube then cutting it in 1/2 then putting either end of it to the ends of the cooler pipeing then using s bike pump to pump up the air inside then see where the leaks are ya rekon this is a good idea???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18187-testing-cooler-pipeing/
Share on other sites

Best way would be to cut some tube 5cm long the same size as the cooler piping and block one end off (if you can weld properly), then drill a hole in one of the plates that you use and put a tyre valve in it. Then with the ends clamped in place you just pump it up like a tyre to 50psi and check after 10 mins and see if it has changed.

... im with Clint 32, put some pressure in it the way he described, but as air is compressible, the Pressure instrument wont really decay over a 10 minute time frame if the leak is minor.

If you were to spray soapy water over the piping as meggala suggested then this will froth up and aid detection

Or when you have some pressure in the tubes, dunk it in a bucket/tank of water.

If you were to pressurise if with water, as water isnt compressible, even the smallest drop/leak will result in significant pressure drops. If you can find a cheap valve from a plumber or something, the average garden hose can provide about 350-450kpa (3.5-4.5bar)

if i was at my old work i would have used the dye as we used it all the time,but i aint gonna buy the 2 or 3 cans of it that costs like $100 for the 1 job lol im gonna reado my top pipeing anyway its too long and i really think it will reduce lag a little if i change the way it is

Lunatic - good link thanks ;)

Just one thing, if we do what they sugest and plug the inlet and pump air into the system, will the system hold preasure or will it leak out the valves?

My brain is going to sleep and I just can't think straight ATM.... LOL

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...