Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

go for electronic for the pure fact that it holds boost better, in cabin controll and you shouldn't get spikes compared to a bleed valve

although if you don't understand the installation diagram don't try it cos things could go backwards and cost you a lot more than its worth

cheers :action-smiley-069:

Personally wouldn't go for an Electronic boost controller as you can get a good bleed valve to hold boost well.

I would probably only go to an Electronic boost controller if I was running about 20psi + of boost, otherwise its just a waste of money.

There is a boost controller that holds boost very well, its TURBOTECH I think it was, big thread on the forums about it. Will post up the link when I find it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...OOST+CONTROLLER

There's a link to past experiences with boost controller, and some recommendations.

Thanks,

Abu

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=$22+boost

Here is some info on that TURBOTECH boost controller, and its just $28.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...+boost+$22

Original thread.

Edited by abu

My turbotech boost T worked fine, now have a Greddy profecB spec2 which is also fine (was a present). The advantages of the ebc is that I can change boost in the car without having to pop the bonnet :D I have my low setting as base boost (no % increase) but with wastegate shut till 8psi which makes it spool up a little quicker than normal. High setting is +25% and gate shut till 10psi. On really cold nights I tend to knock it back to the Low setting (as car is currently untuned). OR I can turn it off altogether :action-smiley-069:

i sed one. held well. for the boost i was running i couldn't justify spending $100 for a controller, let alone $300 or $400, when i could spend the difference on other bits to make it go faster.

Yep, I am the same. I dont want to spend $400 on an EBC to hold 13psi, when a $22 bleed valve will do it for me.

I have also used one, and it worked well. My cousin is using it now as I sold my old car, and I wil be getting another one once I get my cooler.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Yeah i only really want to hit about 10-11psi on the stock turbo, nothing more for wear and tear issues. I don't wanna spend more than $100 if i can spend that or less on something reliable. TurboTech sounds pretty good at this point. Cheers Abu.

Any major issues in installing the bleed valve yourself? I'll check the DIY threads as well. What i wanted ideally was a controller that was adjustable inside the cabin, between stock and higher boost, with one of those rocket switches.

That an EBC right?

i was running the turbotech for years. i loved mine till i lost the bolt and spring and ball on the road somewhere... only then did i get a AVCR (older type)

on my dyno sheet on my sig you can see (just) the boost curve. its flat. i have had people who own workshops tell me that they have seen electronic boost controllerss not be able to hold as much boost as the turbotech.

I dont think you need a electronic boost controller at all. i got mine really cheap and i would have replaced it with another turbotech if it did not come up.

ohh and my car was running 25psi and 363 rwkw with the turbotech on a tial 38mm external wastegate.

Yep, I am the same. I dont want to spend $400 on an EBC to hold 13psi, when a $22 bleed valve will do it for me.

I have also used one, and it worked well. My cousin is using it now as I sold my old car, and I wil be getting another one once I get my cooler.

i can gaurantee a power increase 100% of the time with a properly setup EBC like a DSBC etc (i hate AVCR's they really show their age nowadays)..... over a turbotech bleed valve (actually any bleeder)

in some cases i have seen as much as 22rwkw in the mid range.... an EBC can react far quicker and hold the gate shut for longer which = more mid... especially while the turbotech is busy bleeding off.

i was running the turbotech for years. i loved mine till i lost the bolt and spring and ball on the road somewhere... only then did i get a AVCR (older type)

on my dyno sheet on my sig you can see (just) the boost curve. its flat. i have had people who own workshops tell me that they have seen electronic boost controllerss not be able to hold as much boost as the turbotech.

I dont think you need a electronic boost controller at all. i got mine really cheap and i would have replaced it with another turbotech if it did not come up.

ohh and my car was running 25psi and 363 rwkw with the turbotech on a tial 38mm external wastegate.

25psi, thats awesome with just a bleed valve!

I have seen people holding up to 18psi -19psi fairly well, but 25psi is truely amazing.

Its items like this that show up statements such as "you get what you pay for".

Edited by abu
But do i need an EBC for a stock turbo? Is it even worth it?

it doesn't really matter if its stock or not, its how it comes on boost and how it holds the boost

if your not wanting to mod a lot on your car just go the turbotech, enough people have vouched for it

but you'll end up wanting an EBC if you ever drive a car like yours with one it in, i know i did

But do i need an EBC for a stock turbo? Is it even worth it?

Na mate. A bleed valve will service you fine.

As Guilt-Toy said, he was running 25psi with no issues.

I am sure it will do what you want it to just fine.

Edited by abu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...