Pretty Major Problem =\

[Strik3r]

at least read my post before posting mafia

a) ive got an SAFC2.

b) car has been driving around fine for months since the tune. problem started past few days.

c) rich and retard wouldn't affect the car at idle now would it ?

[MBS206]

Do you have a pod filter?

Sounds like the AFM is covered in oil from the pod filter.

Grab some CO electrical cleaner, spray the AFM whilst it's OFF the car, (Disconnected from car) let it dry (Take a few minutes) drop it back in, see how she goes.

[Adriano]

Have you done a diagnosit check, could be the CAS

[Strik3r]

Do you have a pod filter?

Sounds like the AFM is covered in oil from the pod filter.

Grab some CO electrical cleaner, spray the AFM whilst it's OFF the car, (Disconnected from car) let it dry (Take a few minutes) drop it back in, see how she goes.

yes, and im tending to think that this is the case. I might also get a POD filter cleaning kit too. Autobahn should have them yes ?

[MBS206]

The pod filter cleaning kit, on oil based filters, puts more oil INTO the air filter, hence, when you start the car up, it'll suck more oil onto the AFM.

You need a dry pod filter, or, even easier, run a paper panel filter. Gets rid of one defect if it's not boxed.

[R33silverS2]

If your running an oiled filter get one like an apexi power intake which are dry filters. Also perhaps your oxy sensor has died, or is in very poor condition - which would explain the extra rich running issues throughout thye rev range. I know my car run terrible when the o2 sensor was screwed.

[Strik3r]

yea but the o2 sensor shouldnt cause a hunting idle. also, the jerking and stalling are not explained by a faulty o2 sensor. I cleaned pod filter and reoiled as well as cleaned afm, but i think putting the fresh oil on the pod filter may have been counter-productive (as someone above said). The problem seemed to have gone away, but then after a bit of driving, it came back. Gonna see how it goes, and in the next day or 2 after the oil has dried out somewhat, reclean the afm with the electrical cleaner. I will mention that the AFM didn't seem particularly dirty or anything when i cleaned it, so not yet convinced that that is the problem. Will update with more info over the next few days.

[TTT]

dude..

read the link I posted on the previous page.

if it comes and goes, it's probably the electrical contacts in the AFM are cracked.

they need re-soldering.

if I can do it, I'm sure you can.

believe me.

You can't get it wrong.

[Strik3r]

humm. i dont even have a soldering iron, but i know someone who does and is quite handy with them. will see how i go over the next few days.

[TTT]

Dick smith / Jay car type places sell little basic ones WITH solder for about $20.

also, if you know anyone who has the same car as you, you can try their AFM first.

4 bolts and 1 clamp is all that needs to be removed..

that way you'll be certain that it's the AFM

[Strik3r]

quick question, i have a series 2 afm which is the 3 pin varient. what exactly do i cut open to get to these solder points ? any pics anybody has would be helpfull.

[TTT]

http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/images/Parts/R32afm.jpg

ok that's not your exact AFm but it's the same sort of thing..

Now,

from that angle, the very top part of the AFM (the square box section), it is actaully a CAP.

It is held in place by black automotive silicon.

if you stick a stanley knife in to the gap around the cap, and cut all the way around all 4 edges, (you may need to go over it a couple of times), you will eventually be able to twist the blade while it's in there and pop the cap up.

Once finished re-soldering the points, clean the old silicon off the cap and around the frame as much as you can and put it back on with some new black automotive silicon.

this stuff can be purchased from bunnings or those Crazy Clarks type cheapo stores.

it's in a toothpaste type casing.

it's the same stuff that can be used to seal car windows...

[Strik3r]

ok cheers for that. I can prob get a 2nd hand AFM for $50.. so its just a question of whether its worth buying these parts and cutting mine open or just swapping in another one. can always keep this one as a spare (seems like a useful thing to have around )

[TTT]

true..

but a used electronic part, is a used electronic part.

your current one is a "used AFM" if you get my drift.

there isn't much to an AFM.

as long as the wire in the element is clean and not broken, and the soldering points are not cracked, they will work fine.

but for $50, it's probably handy to have a spare.

then if you somehow manage to break it when doing what I said above (don't see how you could though), you could use the other one.

[Strik3r]

errm, im mid resoldering job at the moment.

Problem: I cut the lid off, and there is this (i think) copper plate covering the whole area.. the plug (and joins) to what i think is the circuit board are a few cm below this plate. Do i just pop this off as well ? it seems to be sealed into the plastic walls of the AFM...

[Strik3r]

went ahead and popped it off. its just a covering plate of the circuit board. Resoldering now. Fingers crossed lads !

[Strik3r]

resoldered the 3 joins (series 2 afm). Put her all back together, waiting on silicon to dry to seal the lid. Am going to spray some more cleaner through it, then put humpty back together again and hope it all works.

[TTT]

good work mate.

How happy will you be when it's all working again.

[aphid]

actually, it's very possible.. off boost there is inherently little pressure inside the cooler piping, so nothing pushing open any leaks that may be there, but when she comes onto boost bam, pressure is going to open up that hole and enough air is going to escape to upset the system..

another thing i'd add if it turns out to be none of the above listed is the CAS, those buggers can and will f**k up from time to time and produce all sorts of weird symptoms

impossible for ur car to run fine with a large leak in the piping.

Basically what happens is the AFM takes a reading of the air coming in, tells the ECU. The ECU then detirmines how much fuel u need based on this reading. If the air subsequently leaks out, it never gets to the engine so u will run very rich, which will cause the engine to drown and hence stall.

[TTT]

come on..

the sillycoon is dry already.

test it out.