Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i've been informed by many that buying a r32 gtr. almost 20 years old or something. is not worth buying as from japan they are all winded back on the kilometres so even if it says 80 thousand kms

its probz done 160 thousand

.. is this correct?

are we all driving old rubbish that the japs piss out n pass onto us n have a laugh?

Edited by Zas)-(
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182176-is-it-still-worth-buying-a-32gtr/
Share on other sites

hey guys

i've been informed by many that buying a r32 gtr. almost 20 years old or something. is not worth buying as from japan they are all winded back on the kilometres so even if it says 80 thousand kms

its probz done 160 thousand

.. is this correct?

are we all driving old rubbish that the japs piss out n pass onto arse n have a laugh?

There are no absolutes in this world. You can be absolutely certain about that.

Have some cars had their odometers wound back (or replaced). Yes.

Are some imports 3rd rate cast offs. Yes.

On the other hand there are usefully large numbers of R32 GT-R's here in Australia in excellent condition that can be inspected, tested & driven. They are a brilliant car and if you find a good one you should be quite happy to sell some of you spare organs to pay for it. Equally if you get a good import broker/workshop you can find an equally nice one in Japan.

Personal opinion time here.

Mines number 1019 of the production line, and matching engine too.

It goes like the stink, and having had many cars, this has to be one of the best I've had.

You have to remeber that this car is the best of the Skyline breed, and is almost immortalised.

It really depends on its history to be honest, but most of them have been well looked after, as they were not cheap to buy in the first place.

Up to you, try one, and then make your call, but I dont think that Km's are that important, it's is it in good condition.

I bought one car, and in 11 months, I had driven 87,000miles on it(did a lot of travelling that year). I sold it for near new price as well..!

People for some reason have this thing about how far it's actually travelled for some reason, but I am not phased by it at all. I have project "Dog", which is my abuse-mobile, it has done over 300,000kms now, and I can trust it completely.

Another car I tried out was a turbo diesel, I stopped at my house one evening, and it was "Foaming at the mouth... returned veeery quickly, and it was 'Disposed of' to some unsuspecting distance counter at only 9000 miles, and 3 months old too.... they bought more than they bargained for with that one..!!

BTW, I am a Pom, living a better life in Oz(best place), so miles was the count there.

So, to say that mine is almost 20 years young, and not worth it, try buying one, and then look at the prices of newer ones... and re-sale price.. for example, I neeeearly bought a 97 'line for $17k, but would have lost out, 'cos the actual value is $9k... 10 years old. THEN try to buy a decent!! Godzilla 8 years older..., and then cash it back-in....watch your money vanish... Its like an old Ferrari and a new corsa...., its what you really want to drive.

It's not the size of the journey, the important thing is "Did you enjoy it".

I've had new cars, and old, and my personal experience is older ones(within reason of course) have been more reliable.

Blah-Blah-Blah-Blah.....

Just my opinion, but get a drive in a 89 Godzilla, and then discover driving experience to a new level.

ohhh yeah mate i've driven a 32 gtr, and i loved the driving experience

yet one of my mates from work , has told me about this that it is jap culture that they clock them back, old dodged cars.... like what for 15 + years its been just sitting there no way? its been used and sold to us...

i've driven one and i love them but the fact that im unsure on how much the clocks been wounded back and stuff makes you kinda wonder that ppl driving skylines say 88 thousand km on it..... probz done 140 k kms??????

always sumthing on the back of ya mind you know...

but i still love the old monsters

It's easy to pick a clock job if you inspect the car as theres somany signs of wear and tear on rotors,seats,pedal rubbers etc so get the cars on a hoist and look real hard and you will spot the true low K jobs.If all this stuff is brand new then its prolly a high K job.

if you think that you are going to get ANY 89 model R32 GTR's with original engine and not be up for a rebuild soon, you're kidding yourself.

If you drive it around like you're in a camry, then it will live for ever..

but it's a GTR.

Built to be driven in anger.

and has been since 1989.

so if you drive it like that aswell, you'll soon be doing the rebuild.

If I ever buy a GTR (Not likely) I would buy it ONLY locally, ONLY after I've driven it, ONLY after I've inspected the documentation of the rebuild with receipts, ONLY after I've spoken to that workshop that built it to confirm.

No-way in hell I'd import an unopened R32 GTR from Jap-pan.

KM's mean nothing really.

My current car has 315,000 on it.

engine has been rebuilt once back in 2004 (with receipts) and I have confirmed this with the workshop.

im seriously considering buying an R32 GTR maybe before xmas, and im starting to look around from now just to get an idea....there are sum very good examples out there, but there are also some rough examples, this is the case with any car really.

if your patient and are prepared to pay abit more for an immaculate one, if should serve you well

if i do get one, a rebuid is on my mind, so im not overly fussed about the engine been 100% perfect, but one with decent compression etc would be prefered until im ready.

GTR's are driven hard both here and in japan, so you must expect some sort of wear and tear on these models

goodluck :wave:

New r34 Gtt has same output as 32 GTR.. Now you weight up what you would rather and decide.. I think the r32 is a wicked car but you'll prob spend its worth on fixing it rather than modding it ..

GTT with GTR mod for 4wd will have u buzzing but I think the GTT is good enough..

New r34 Gtt has same output as 32 GTR.. Now you weight up what you would rather and decide.. I think the r32 is a wicked car but you'll prob spend its worth on fixing it rather than modding it ..

GTT with GTR mod for 4wd will have u buzzing but I think the GTT is good enough..

GTR mod for GTT sounds interesting..... :laughing-smiley-014:

We're not DISSIN it y0!

we're stating facts.

at least I was.

Yo homie. Ah crap, how white am I?

Perhaps not but like a lot of people who don't like them you managed to generate a list of requirements that virtually no car that has ever left the new car forecourt will pass. How many Skylines (not just GT-R's) would pass muster on your list? Very few I would wager.

In any case it is up to peoples own tastes. For mine I would go anywhere near a car with 300,000+ kms on it.

Anyway my point is this:

I have owned 4 R32 Gt-R's.

They have all been good cars.

I have not had cause to rebuild the motor on any of them.

You could not pick the kms from the conditions of the interior.

hey guys

shit rebuild?????

whatsa that another 5 grand on top???

now i cant put the car on a hoist, what could i possibly look for to see decent wear and tear? what to look for in this performance car since it is a performance car and not a standard

im still up for buying one . i wouldnt go for a 34 gtt, even though its newer the power the r32 gtr .fffffarrrk niceeeee

what if one of the vehicles i saw

had 44 thousand kms, on it fresh import, immaculate in condition

wat can i look for in a clock job

i dun wanna buy a dud of a c*nt

To be honest, any car that is nearly twenty years old will have seen a lot of miles. A performance car will have seen some thrashing too. Nobody buys a GTR to only drive to church on Sundays.

Now you might thing that a new set of rings, a valve job and a new clutch will restore the whole car to as new showroom condition. Sadly that is never true. Old cars have things like collapsed drivers seat, worn out window winders, worn gearbox synchros, and ten thousand other annoying little problems. Quite a few will have been pranged and repaired, maybe pranged several times.

To fix everything is just not realistic. If all you want is a fast car, and could not care less about the fluid leaks, body filler, panels that don't meet properly, gearbox crunches, or the funny noises from the suspension, fine. Just realize it is an old tired car,

You may get lucky and find one that has belonged to some crazy millionaire, hardly ever driven, and has only done 5,000 Km, but don't count on it.

The truth is, you get what you pay for. And sometimes a lot less than you pay for.

Black paint flaking off the inlet manifolds of cars showing less than 100,000 kms is evidence of extreme use or a "fiddled" odometer.

but i'ld go more in depth by gettin a compression test/leak down test done...

As above. If paint on the manifold is flaking it means thats the engine has been hot and then cooled down quikly....not a good sign.

Just look for one with a newr rb26dett from an r33/r34 or make sure the one you buy has been rebuilt...like most have.

Ryan

Well, in my opinion, having owned many performance cars, I have to say, for the year.... Man, I love it, way ahead of it's time as a standard road car, but well ahead in the 90's.

I am prepared to do another complete, no expenses spared, rebuild when she needs it... but then again, to me, it is quite a bullet-proof motor anyway.

I guess there is a large quantity of luck involved, but shop carefully, OR!!.. buy cheap, and put the money in as and when you want.... one day, "The Duckling will be a Swan..!!"

I suppose you have to be a bit of a fireside mechanic too, but enjoy getting to know it intimately..!, Not a vehicle for the average driver, evaluate what you want to be.

Want an Icon, then there is a price... can you afford it.??

You can keep the 34, 'tis merely a attempt at re-kindling the fire of the past.

Its like they say.. yep, you can buy, but it'll never, ever be a R32 GT-R, no matter how much money and time, and mods you throw at it...!

If you want one, then you gotta have one, or you'll always have these words in your memory... "MAYBE IF...."

I suppose its why there is a devout following, as indicated by the likes of this site. I think we are all very proud of our cars, and like the company of like-minded people.

"If only I'd bought that GT-R, then maybe............, IF ONLY..."

Remember one thing... What car do all the look-a-likes compare with??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...