Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to be changing my gearbox and diff oil this weekend and I've read really good things about Redline Shockproof.

What type do I want to get for my gearbox and diff? Heavy or Lightweight?

I got quoted $115 for a 3.8 litre bottle from "Performance Wholesale" at Slacks Creek (Brisbane). Does this sound right? Will this be all I need? I read somewhere that the gearbox takes 2.4 litres and the diff takes 1.4 so it should work out ok. Can anyone confirm?

Edited by Simmo1985
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183077-which-type-of-redline-oil-to-use/
Share on other sites

I was told that shockproof will make the LSD shudder a bit. I used lightweight shockproof in the front (open) diff and gearbox, and redline 75-90 in the rear diff. Just make sure that whatever you get for the rear diff is LSD friendly. Also, you should use a GL-4 in the gearbox and a GL-5 in the diffs.

what do you guys recommend for a Cusco 2way? and shock proof for the gearbox.? light or heavy? the 2nd and 3rd are a bit crunchy when cold..

Lightweight shockproof is often recommended for tired R32/R33 gearboxes. Dunno about the diff - ask Redline for a recommendation here

  • 3 weeks later...

i recently put redline heavy duty shock proof (i think thats what its called) in my gearbox. i havent felt any shudders so to speak but it is a little bit more difficult to shift into gear. espcially 1st when it is cold.

is this normal? my mechanic said this was the best stuff around.

i use ls140 with ford motorsport additive in my kaaz 2way so i dont see why it wouldnt work in a cusco. as for gearbox i use 75/90. dont see the point in using expensive shit when i'll only change it in 30,000kms

dont see the point in using expensive shit when i'll only change it in 30,000kms

The point is;

- You'll be better protected during those 30,00kms (and beyond)

- You dont have to change it until you get to 100,000kms

i recently put redline heavy duty shock proof (i think thats what its called) in my gearbox. i havent felt any shudders so to speak but it is a little bit more difficult to shift into gear. espcially 1st when it is cold.

is this normal? my mechanic said this was the best stuff around.

No its shouldnt be more difficult to shift. The common recommendation is lightweight shockproof, not heavy. Perhaps that's the problem.

Shudders would only occur in LSD diffs, not gearboxes.

No its shouldnt be more difficult to shift. The common recommendation is lightweight shockproof, not heavy. Perhaps that's the problem.

Shudders would only occur in LSD diffs, not gearboxes.

Sorry i didnt get the shudder and diff connection

yeh well it definitly is alot harder to push the gearstick into gear. but like u say it is probably because its a more viscous oil.

other than that it is alot smoother since i changed the oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...