Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello!

I need help regarding the choice of gearbox for an R33.

Initially I would have never considered the Auto-Gearbox, however I got a good offer for

an R33 Auto-Gear.

So the question is:

Is the automatic transmission any good, or should one avoid it?

As for me:

I never owned a Skyline before and I'm not one of those drift guys but I certainly like going fast.

Thanks for the help and cheers from London!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183305-r33-gts-t-auto-gearbox-any-good/
Share on other sites

Please dont take my word as gospel but most nissan gearboxes are very well built and very solid. There are variations between different models but as far as I know the skyline auto (and manual) gearboxes are all fantastic. Very few people have problems with them, going by the threads on this forum, and they can handle quite a bit of power.

The stagea auto box for example (series 1 is same as r33, series 2 is same as r34) can handle 200awkw without any trouble. Obviously it will depend how its driven and I'm not suggesting it will last as long this way as if the car was stock...

On the other hand, I have experienced a s13 silvia auto box (non-turbo too, so not much strain on the gearbox) go kaput and the 2nd hand replacement one that I had fitted also died within a month. Its luck of the draw really. Later I owned a turbo auto silvia and it never had a problem even though it had many more km's on it than the n/a one.

I'd recommend getting a full transmission service (not just an oil change - take it to an auto transmission specialist). They'll let you know what condition its in. :) 9 times out of 10 you should have no probs, but it just pays to be sure I guess. :)

SO are you taling about converting a manual car to auto? Or just buying a Auto r33?

Auto gear isn't that expensive... auto boxes in good condition go for below $100 down here ( So it'd have to be an awesome deal ) unless your talking about buying an auto car...

My auto box died when i hit 189rwkw 40 degree celcius heat last summer, ( So I went manual instead of replacing the auto)

But The auto was awesome. And with a valve-body upgrade it should be able to handle 250+kw easy.

Hi!

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I was referring to buying a R33 Single Turbo with Auto Gearbox but was unsure about the nature

of the Automatic Transmission vs. manual transmission.

How well does it shift, and is it any sluggish?

I heard that the R33s with Automatic have reduced power?

Cheers!

Hi!

How well does it shift, and is it any sluggish?

I heard that the R33s with Automatic have reduced power?

Cheers!

hi, I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure that the manual and auto cars have the same horsepower, as for slugishness auto's arnt quite as fast as a manual gear change but it isnt to any great extent, lines are known to have good gear boxes.

Hi!

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I was referring to buying a R33 Single Turbo with Auto Gearbox but was unsure about the nature

of the Automatic Transmission vs. manual transmission.

How well does it shift, and is it any sluggish?

I heard that the R33s with Automatic have reduced power?

Cheers!

Cant comment on skylines - hopefully someone here can clear that up...

But the R33 skyline (lets say manual) has 184kw but the stagea s1 auto (mostly same gear as r33 s2) has only 173kw.

Either the way the auto may be a bit slower/less responsive than the manual but on the other hand they are smoother to drive. Autos can accelerate normally through the gears without you or the passengers being able to feel the gearchanges, or at least not very much.

A MV Automatics shift kit (valve body upgrade) will make things a bit more clunky mainly on the 1st-2nd change, but still very driveable day-to-day. None of my passengers have ever commented on the shifts. They're not harsh unless you drive it hard.

For the low cost of a shift kit I'd highly recommend one. They improve the speed of your shifts a lot. :yes:

  • 1 year later...
SO are you taling about converting a manual car to auto? Or just buying a Auto r33?

Auto gear isn't that expensive... auto boxes in good condition go for below $100 down here ( So it'd have to be an awesome deal ) unless your talking about buying an auto car...

My auto box died when i hit 189rwkw 40 degree celcius heat last summer, ( So I went manual instead of replacing the auto)

But The auto was awesome. And with a valve-body upgrade it should be able to handle 250+kw easy.

i really need a cheap trans box i cant go out or even go to work.. im jus wondering were uve seen a auto trans for 100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...