Jump to content
SAU Community

Cusco Swaybars For Drift, Your Thoughts?

White GTS-T
 Share

Recommended Posts

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Hey, i was just wondering what people thought about using Cusco Swaybars for drifting, in regards to R32's?

I always thought a stiffer rear would make the car more prone to oversteer but i read that some people are using Whiteline 24mm front and 22mm rear.

Is it because of the cost difference (which is massive) or the lack of adjustability that people go with Whiteline?

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

Cost difference and adjustability means Whiteline is a smart option.

I think that 30mm rear bar would be hollow, but if it isn't that's FAR too big on the rear.

For drift I guess you do want it a bit oversteery, but you dont want it rediculously oversteery, you still want a lot of rear grip for speed.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

I've got a solid 30mm bar on the front, its good if the road is smooth... Dead set you dont want 30mm on the rear. May as well just weld it all up if you were going to do that. Assuming its a solid bar.

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I'm sold. You guys definitely know what your talking about when it comes to sliding 32's.

I didn't know Whiteline made a 27mm front swaybar for 32's? Unless the R31 (BNF25Z), R33 GTS (BNF24X) swaybars fit?

For future reference do you have the part numbers? all i can find for 32's is as follows:

(F) "Swaybar-H/Duty Blade Adjustable BNF28Z 22mm"

® "Swaybar-X H/Duty Blade Adjustable BNR26XZ 24mm"

From the Whiteline catalogue.

Cheers :D

Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

on whiteline 24front 22rear.with the rear set to full hard when i go out drifting.the car feels very predictable when it is sideways.id like to run some more camber from for better traction but will stick with what i have.also i run urethane pineapples set to standard.

what are peoples thoughts on the "drift pineapple" setup?does it really make that much of a difference?when do they come into play the most.everywhere,on entry,when sideways???

im not trying to hijack your thread.:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...