Jump to content
SAU Community

Horray Finally Have Intercooler

WA_R32

By WA_R32,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
Posted

Hey,

just installed a FMIC on my 32 and was wondering about the reo bar i was told by everyone that i knew that i had to cut the bar but when i installed it the bar fitted on perfectly in front of it not sure why maybe my reo bar is smaller than most not sure??

anyone else not had to cut the bar??? im a little concerned that i might have not installed it correctly

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183831-horray-finally-have-intercooler/
Share on other sites
NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

If you install it correctly, then you don't need to cut the reo bar. Its illegal to cut it as it provides reinforcement. A lot of people rush the job and cut their reo instead of working slowly and putting it in right :whistling:

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah okay i went into my mates work to do it he works at centre ford in the city so we had it up on the hoist :blink: and all the air tools it only took us about 3 hours to install the cooler but another hour to cut the front bar and refit it did a good job though i think

Flash89 Mentor

Flash89

Posted
Posted

i see on some cars that the reo bar is covering a bit of the top of the core of the intercooler, wouldnt you want as much air going through?? but then again the bumper doesnt have much of a hole for the cooler but if you go aftermarket front bumper such as do luck i think the reo bar would need cutting.

michael87 Collaborator

michael87

Posted
Posted

I spent hours messing around trying to avoid cutting the reo, I couldn't find anyway it would fit without cutting it, didn't have to cut much though. The same was done trying to avoid cutting the fan blades but if you lifted the pipe up so that it would clear it would touch the lining on the bonnet. I ended up cutting a square hole to give me a bit more movement so that i could try to make it clear the fan blades but no help.

I was fitting the cooler to my car which is a r33 s1 and at the same time one on my friends r33 s2, i noticed the reo bar was smaller on the s2, but still required cutting.

-michael

lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
Posted

hey guys!

talking about intercooler, i was wondering....

i have heard tat putting a bigger intercooler wit out increasing ur boost will cos lag.

current mods are 3" straight thru exhaust wit bigger front n dump pipe + air intake.

stock boost.

any harm to the engine / long term/ short term?

thanks for all the info guys!

MMM Rising Star

MMM

Posted
Posted
hey guys!

talking about intercooler, i was wondering....

i have heard tat putting a bigger intercooler wit out increasing ur boost will cos lag.

current mods are 3" straight thru exhaust wit bigger front n dump pipe + air intake.

stock boost.

any harm to the engine / long term/ short term?

thanks for all the info guys!

no harm to the engine it fine just do it

also theres no way around putting a fmic on without cutting the bar soo f**k knows how you did it

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hehe in that case if there is anyone who wants me to install their front mount without cutting their reo bar $200 each you supply pipes and cooler :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: just jokes dunno how i did it ;)

it was a bit annoying though having to cut my front bumper but just managed to score a GTR front bar for $150 so im pretty happy bout that :)

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine is one of the just jap coolers type 2 and i have a 1989 r32 so it couldn't be because of the year.

Actually i had a prang about a year ago wrote off the front end(wasn't my fault some chick pulled out in front of me in an x-trail) i went to the an auto wreckers in midland and got a nose cut so maybe that was a later model cut??? maybe 92 model

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
erm.

i got a hks types fmic for the gtt and do i need to take our the reo bar?

need any custom work?

or direct bolt on?

you will need to cut a 3 inch hole (depending on the size of your piping) just under the battery for the return pipe not sure how the hks kit fits though never done one of them but i assume that they would be the same as mine depending on what size it is.

You should allow yourself about 4 or 5 hours to do it though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...