Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

just installed a FMIC on my 32 and was wondering about the reo bar i was told by everyone that i knew that i had to cut the bar but when i installed it the bar fitted on perfectly in front of it not sure why maybe my reo bar is smaller than most not sure??

anyone else not had to cut the bar??? im a little concerned that i might have not installed it correctly

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183831-horray-finally-have-intercooler/
Share on other sites

If you install it correctly, then you don't need to cut the reo bar. Its illegal to cut it as it provides reinforcement. A lot of people rush the job and cut their reo instead of working slowly and putting it in right :whistling:

yeah okay i went into my mates work to do it he works at centre ford in the city so we had it up on the hoist :blink: and all the air tools it only took us about 3 hours to install the cooler but another hour to cut the front bar and refit it did a good job though i think

i see on some cars that the reo bar is covering a bit of the top of the core of the intercooler, wouldnt you want as much air going through?? but then again the bumper doesnt have much of a hole for the cooler but if you go aftermarket front bumper such as do luck i think the reo bar would need cutting.

I spent hours messing around trying to avoid cutting the reo, I couldn't find anyway it would fit without cutting it, didn't have to cut much though. The same was done trying to avoid cutting the fan blades but if you lifted the pipe up so that it would clear it would touch the lining on the bonnet. I ended up cutting a square hole to give me a bit more movement so that i could try to make it clear the fan blades but no help.

I was fitting the cooler to my car which is a r33 s1 and at the same time one on my friends r33 s2, i noticed the reo bar was smaller on the s2, but still required cutting.

-michael

hey guys!

talking about intercooler, i was wondering....

i have heard tat putting a bigger intercooler wit out increasing ur boost will cos lag.

current mods are 3" straight thru exhaust wit bigger front n dump pipe + air intake.

stock boost.

any harm to the engine / long term/ short term?

thanks for all the info guys!

hey guys!

talking about intercooler, i was wondering....

i have heard tat putting a bigger intercooler wit out increasing ur boost will cos lag.

current mods are 3" straight thru exhaust wit bigger front n dump pipe + air intake.

stock boost.

any harm to the engine / long term/ short term?

thanks for all the info guys!

no harm to the engine it fine just do it

also theres no way around putting a fmic on without cutting the bar soo f**k knows how you did it

hehe in that case if there is anyone who wants me to install their front mount without cutting their reo bar $200 each you supply pipes and cooler :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: just jokes dunno how i did it ;)

it was a bit annoying though having to cut my front bumper but just managed to score a GTR front bar for $150 so im pretty happy bout that :)

Mine is one of the just jap coolers type 2 and i have a 1989 r32 so it couldn't be because of the year.

Actually i had a prang about a year ago wrote off the front end(wasn't my fault some chick pulled out in front of me in an x-trail) i went to the an auto wreckers in midland and got a nose cut so maybe that was a later model cut??? maybe 92 model

erm.

i got a hks types fmic for the gtt and do i need to take our the reo bar?

need any custom work?

or direct bolt on?

you will need to cut a 3 inch hole (depending on the size of your piping) just under the battery for the return pipe not sure how the hks kit fits though never done one of them but i assume that they would be the same as mine depending on what size it is.

You should allow yourself about 4 or 5 hours to do it though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...