Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

You can use an original WALBRO pump, they are about $160 delivered from SLIDE in the for sale trader section.

BOSCH 040 I believe is the one your chasing, that is also a good option.

Personally would go for an original WALBRO as they are very reliable pumps. Few people pushing 300rwkw with them, as well as being very easy to install!

Its been covered heaps on the forums. Check the DIY/tutorial section and you will find and installation guide more than likely, also search the forced induction section for like "what fuel pump" and you should get a lot of results.

Good luck.

Abu

Edited by abu

You can use either, the 040 has a filter built in and has to be mounted low, the 044 uses the standard sock filter and hose. If your r33 is stock you don't need either, if it's making 220rwkW - 280rwkW use the 040, if it's making 280rwkW - 400rwkW use 044.

Dont skimp on you fuel pump choice,go Nismo or Tomei,they are direct fit,and will easily cater to your power goal.

atm i'm making 180atw

but aimming for around 220-240

so i guess the walbro would be ok for this target?

cheers guys

yes it will be ok for that target but not much more

if your dead set you dont want no more than get the walbro/040 but MAKE SURE you dont want to go more because you will end up buying twice like alot of people

if i were to do it again, id spend the extra $250 and get a nismo/tomei from the start (ill have to do this when i change the turbo)

Dont skimp on you fuel pump choice,go Nismo or Tomei,they are direct fit,and will easily cater to your power goal.

TOMEI or a NISMO?

Man if you got the cash to spend $500 on a fuel pump then go ahead.. but a WALBRO pump for $160 delivered will serve you the EXACT same purpose.

There is a guy with an R33 which is running 300rwkw on a WALBRO pump.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=167572&hl=

Edited by abu

theres been alot of people that have had problems with walbros running lean as they get higher up

sure they should handle up to about 300kw but usually they dont

i have one and its fine but im only running 200kw..

anyhow its just what i have read from others exprience so dont take my word for it

there is a fuel pump control module (FPCM) which regulates between a low and high volume mode, other then that it just pumps either of the 2 modes, that being said in your engine bay is a fuel pressure regulator (FPR) which regulates the pressure of the flow into the fuel rail meaning that the pump just pumps at its one speed all the time and the FPR regulate it for you.

that why these guys are saying it doesn't matter which pump you go far, if the WALBRO is leaning out up top its because it pumping at maximum pressure / volume and simply cannot supply more fuel.

the FPR cannot up the pressure provided by the fuel pump merely reduce and regulate it

Would there be any problem with running a Tomei pump on a stock (with turbo back exhaust) R33 GTST. Would it run unnecessarily rich or does it only pump what is required?

You wont have any problem at all, it'll run fine (fuel reg will regulate pressure).

After much research and pondering what pump I should install (040, 044, Walbro 255, Tomei kit etc) I came to the conclusion that the Tomei kit (has everything you need including new seal, clamps, harness, wiring etc) is well worth the $360 advertised in the classifieds of this forum. It was a easy direct install with no modifications.

  • 8 months later...
I've just bought a new Walbro fuel pump from Slide, should be here on Monday.

I opted for the Walbro because I'm only aiming for around 200rwkw.

hey just wondering that walbro fuel pump that you got is that from the trading post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...