Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha that's funny. My stockish RB25DET cuts the fuel around 7000rpm :D but i guess it's A) safety and B)pointless to go harder as the stock turb is outta breath by then anyway.

Does it sound good over 8000rpm? I reckon it would be as angry as a Type R, hopefully angrier with an extra two pistons spinning around.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha that's funny. My stockish RB25DET cuts the fuel around 7000rpm :D but i guess it's A) safety and B)pointless to go harder as the stock turb is outta breath by then anyway.

Does it sound good over 8000rpm? I reckon it would be as angry as a Type R, hopefully angrier with an extra two pistons spinning around.

Yeah no point reving them that hard when they are stock.

They sound fair quiet on boost but once it gets up about 6,000 rpm and above you can hear the engine struggling and whining.

But again I haven't rev'd it that hard too many times so haven't taken much noticed.

I'd rather hear it on limiter!! :P

Edited by abu

From what Roy has said im pretty sure his has seen 8500 on numerous occasions!

And its not like his motor is lightly tuned either.

BUt prob wait till he comes in and drops his 2c :D

But i feel the same as well as you guys... I remember going to Launch my car once and i forgot to put it in gear :S

I dont know what it revved to but it did make a odd noise, like not something breaking and not flutter and not my BOV... Motor still seems A-OK though!

From what Roy has said im pretty sure his has seen 8500 on numerous occasions!

And its not like his motor is lightly tuned either.

BUt prob wait till he comes in and drops his 2c :D

But i feel the same as well as you guys... I remember going to Launch my car once and i forgot to put it in gear :S

I dont know what it revved to but it did make a odd noise, like not something breaking and not flutter and not my BOV... Motor still seems A-OK though!

Hahaha revving it on idle to 8,000 rpm odd wont cause damage if its just there and back. But constantly holding it there, or under load say in gear it will cause some damage, but depends on the situation I guess, and things such as tune.

Yep also keen to see what Roy has to say. I know he revs his motor hard on occasions but that’s tuned motor. I need more feed back on a stock motor :P

i've hit the limiter a few times. it just cuts out all power. just back off abit and get back on it.

mines a std rb20det auto with std ecu and my safc reads about 300rpm lower then what the tacho reads.

7992 is where my factory limiter was (according to my old R-FIT) So 7,800 sounds about sopt on.

Yeah thats what I thought.

If it kicked in 7,800 rpm that would be awesome!

Edited by abu
Std rb20's with the rev limit raised to 8900 love the limiter all day long.

ps wolf ecus are shit for an rb application.

pfc remap ftw

Any reason why WOLF is shit? Would be keen to hear the explanation behind that.

After market ECU's are only as good as the tuner, that goes for any ECUs including PFC and REMAPs.

8,900 rpm is way to high, maybe if its been modified and tuned.. but still why the fk would you rev it to 8,900 rpm?

Edited by abu
Hahaha revving it on idle to 8,000 rpm odd wont cause damage if its just there and back. But constantly holding it there, or under load say in gear it will cause some damage, but depends on the situation I guess, and things such as tune.

Yep also keen to see what Roy has to say. I know he revs his motor hard on occasions but that’s tuned motor. I need more feed back on a stock motor :rofl:

LOL...my engine is a $600 short motor from EKW, it was built by Nissan and tuned by a built fella. But the motor is std.

As for rev limit, i would stick with about 7,000rpm and i am confident the thing will last a lifetime. If the thing doesnt breathe that well up high and drops off power, then dont rev it...it hurts your acceleration and the engine needlessly

Some thinking of mine about abusing RB20s :wacko:

Dont rev the engine harder then you need to in order to fall into the meaty range of the power band on a gear change. Make sure your fuelling and ignition is on the money at the higher rpms and the engine isnt pinging. Also, make sure you are not getting your water or oil temps too high (water 95deg C and oil 100 deg C) To some that may be low but when i see those temps i tend to back off the motor and drop the revs well back to let it all cool down.

So, that all said. I have used 8,600rpm (According to PFc handset) and 1.5bar of boost in my engine. Its a credit to my tuner and the reliability of a std motor at 260rwkws. I typically run a rev limit of 8,000rpm and around 1.3bar.

You can see in the attached graph which shows rpm that even with a reasonable sized turbo the power does fall off at 7,000rpm

gallery_462_50_8431.jpg

So i am to keep my car's revs between 5,500 and 7,000rpm as it never drops below 240rwkws. So at motorkhanas i bounce off the rev limit a fair bit as i am in 1st. Occasionally in 2nd gear. At the track i generally touch the limiter if its a slow corner and 2nd gear as i need to wait that moment until road speed actually catches up with wheel speed (touch of wheelspin)

But apart from that i generally shift up at around 7,300rpm when into 3rd and 4th gears etc etc. When at Sandown and Winton there are a few corners where if i give 2nd gear hell the cars gearing allows me to avoid a gear change and get great drive / power on exits. So when at Winton and Sandown i will up the rev limit to 8,600rpm and i get damn near it on my 2nd to 3rd shift, occassionally hitting it if i get a bit of wheelspin. But at a place like Phillip island where its all 3rd gear stuff and higher i tend to only rev it to a bit over 7,000rpm before changing gear.

So, yeh they rev nice and handle the revs and boost well. But as i want this motor to last as long as possible so i can find out how much abuse and power it can make ...i do tend to apply some logic to how i drive the thing...though most ppl think im just a butcher :(

This is 8,600rpm (maybe 8,800 cant remember) and 1.3bar

and a lets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...