Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i just got an upgraded fuel rail for my rb26dett but the problem is the holes on the rail were the injector sits in are too big! do i have to get new injectors that fit? i thought all top feeds are the same diameter(well ones for the rb26 atleast) is there away i can make them work? im so lost! help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184734-upgraded-fuel-rail/
Share on other sites

Why did you buy a fuel rail?

The stock one if fine for over 400rwkw, and going by all your others threads your trying to do things all as cheap as possible... so this parts makes less sense than some of the others!

this may seem like an obvious question but what size and brand fuel rail did you buy? and what injectors are you trying to put in there?

standard RB26 injectors are 10.5mm.

i really dont know what kind of fuel rail! sorry its just like a generic type! its got 6-an fittings on both side and middle! im using stock rb26dett injectors but they are loose as hell in the hole in the rail! can i just use a bigger o-ring to make it fit? ill try to find it ill post a pic/link

unfortunately that is the problem you get with cheaper generic brand stuff. often they have poor fit and finish and are just generally not always 100% suitable. as for larger 0-rings you may be able to. try some and see if you can get some with the right ID and OD to make it work. but personally I'd just bin the rail and either buy a proper fitting one, or just use the stockie.

r31-thanks for the nice comments! no need for that! its my car/motor and ill do what i want!

So you either are or are not short of a coin.

Either way the ebay add says 2JZ... i mean, that isnt RB26 now is it?

Sell it, use the stock one.

So you either are or are not short of a coin.

Either way the ebay add says 2JZ... i mean, that isnt RB26 now is it?

Sell it, use the stock one.

It rude to question someone as to if they're low on cash, its none of your concern. You posted in most of his threads just questioning his intentions instead of providing any help at all.

He said the its the same rail but for a rb26, maybe the supplier simply sent out the wrong part.

No need to post useless comments that people dont want to read, learn to be constructive.

In his threads he has been stating he is trying to go all the cheap options.

Buying a un-proven fuel rail does not fit into this and is risky, and as it turns out... look what happened.

Might pay you to go back over past threads, as it seems you missed the majority.

In his threads he has been stating he is trying to go all the cheap options.

Buying a un-proven fuel rail does not fit into this and is risky, and as it turns out... look what happened.

Might pay you to go back over past threads, as it seems you missed the majority.

dude, your missing the point...

your not helping anyone. anyway its not the first time someone has mentioned something about your attitude in people's thread, you didnt get the point then and you wont get it now.

let the thread continue.

dude, your missing the point...

your not helping anyone. anyway its not the first time someone has mentioned something about your attitude in people's thread, you didnt get the point then and you wont get it now.

let the thread continue.

Might help the poor guy develop some common sense.

ok the link i posted i was the fuel rail looks like!!! i didnt order that one/ or order it from the seller! it came from a company called bmpc here in america! it came in a box marked for an r32/33/34 so yes its for an rb26dett! i just want to know it there away to make stock injectors work! no need to bash my shallow pockets! i got the part of dirt cheap! just looking for help not bashing!

and another note r31 i will beusing a greddy emanage to run my car so is that good enough for your standards? or am i still to cheap?

If you got it for "Dirt cheap" then no real loss, just sell it on. Just use the stock rail (you wont like the cost of AN fittings to get it running anyway)

I would recommend really researching parts you need to make the power you want. The RB26 Dyno Thread is more then a page of braggin rights. You can browse many setups and get an very good idea of what parts people are using to make what power.

The search box will save you $$$ and ridicule.

Happy tuning :closedeyes:

if u do use the billet rail, u'll find u will end up spending 3x the cost of the rail itself, on braided lines & fittings

also if u do use the billet rail, u'll now need an aftermarket fuel reg.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...