Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there

It may be hearsay, but I am under the impression that only certain handsets can work with certain PFCs, between models, and even different versions of PFC eg

R33GTSt PFC controller won't work with R33GTR controller...

R33GTR controller version XX won't work with R33 GTR PFC version XY...

Can anyone confirm this, and have a definitive list of which serials work with which PFCs?

Many thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184843-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Pinched from PaulR33's FAQ site here

My Hand Controller freezes at the Apexi Logo. Why???

When you use an incorrect model hand controller on a PowerFC unit the hand controller will freeze at the Apexi Logo. I believe this occurs as during boot up the hand controller sends a "hello,ping" to the PowerFC using a specific CRC function (or possibly a shared key based on the model). The PowerFC replies with a preset "shared key" to suit that unit, such as an rb26 skyline shared key. If you are using a different hand controller then the packet is scrambled or fails CRC and boot up fails, the result the Hand Controller stays on the Apexi logo. The PowerFC will still work, it just means that you can't use the hand controller. The most common "in the wild" occurance of this we have seen is the first generation PowerFC's 2.x 3.x 4.x and using newer model hand controllers. There are quiet a few version "variants" in the wild and below is a list of them. This is taken from my own "in the wild" experience and what's on the Apexi site. It is by no means a perfect model list and it could be wrong or have errors/mistakes.

Internal Apexi Model Name for Hand Controller

FCC NT First generation to suit Nissan

FCC FN Second generation to suit Nissan

FCC AD First generation to suit Nissan Djetro

FCC TS MR2 model

FCC TZ MR2 model

FCC SX Toyota Altezza/Lexus I think

FCC ZF RX7

FCC ZG RX7 Second Generation

FCC IH Honda Integra

FCC2 SX Version 2 for Toyota Altezza/Lexus

FCC2 JX Version 2 for Toyota Chaser

FCC2 DK Version 2 for Evo Lancer

FCC2 Version 2 general

FCC3 Version 3 general

FCC3 1JAT Version 3 Chaser Auto

The main product codes seem to be

FCC First Batch

FCC2 Version 2

FCC3 Version 3

Units that are sold as Version 3 seem to be the newer PowerFC and Hand Controller bundle in one price/package. Most people that have brought a new PowerFC in the last 2-3 years should have this bundle/package. The Hand Controller versions for these units should 5.x 8.x and so on. Units that are sold as Version 2 seem to be expansions of the Version 1 run but with more cars supported. This is likely to be version 3.x and 4.x under ETC, VERSION Version 1 or FCC is likely to be the first generation PowerFCs and may even say 2.x under ETC,VERSION.

The PowerFC also has an internal model or board number. My Skyline has FC-14B for its main board version. The main thing to note here is the sticker or product code on the PowerFC Shell. My skyline has ECR33. Other likely models would be GTR33 or SR20 and so on (basically the car or engine code).

The hand controller logo freeze seems to crop up when using an FCC3 on an FCC based PowerFC. Such as using as first generation R33 PowerFC and using a newer generation R33 hand controller. The common "in the wild" example is using FCC3 (sticker on back of hand controller) on a RB25 PowerFC (sticker on side of unit). This will not work, as RB25 PowerFC labelled units expect FCC NT instead of FCC3 so it will freeze and fail boot up.

Looking at the Apexi product chart for models we can see that the original run of Skyline R33 PowerFCS were known as RB25 on the unit itself. Its a little white sticker on the outside of the case. Newer generation R33 were known as ECR33 and this is present on the sticker also (in the same spot). So going from apexi's chart we can see that the original style RB25 PFC needs FCC NT. We can also see from this chart that FCC NT works on all of the first generation Nissan models. So if you can find an older style to suit any of the Nissan PowerFCs then this should work on RB25 PowerFC. Most suppliers dont stock the older versions cos they don't carry them anymore. Our main supplier Nengun.com has the following older style hand controllers

415-N001 Nissan Main Old Style

415-T001 Toyota Main Old Style

415-T003 Toyota Type B Old Style (not sure what this is for)

415-X001 Newer Style Hand Controller

So if you have 3.x 4.x then you should aim for the older style to suit your Car. if you have the newer 5.x then you should go for the newer X001 unit.

So for RB25 you should choose 415-N001 as 415-N001 is the first generation Nissan Hand Controller. If you have ECR33 you should choose 415-X001 as its the newer Nissan Hand Controller.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184843-power-fc/#findComment-3346184
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...