Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbos

Mr_GaZZa

By Mr_GaZZa,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
Posted

Hi every1

just wondering

wats a gd upgrade for a R33 S1 skyline turbo....

i think my seals gone... smokes whitey/blue smoke on hot idle wif lil revs 'just started', since boosted

need to knw what wuld bolt straight up wif stock water/oil cooling pipes and that!!!

or where can i get mine re-built..... and how much

thanks gaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/
Share on other sites
Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Or you could buy a T3/T4 Hybrid for around $900 Just need to look around im sure you will find one, Had one on my 32 GTST ausome turbo

yeah that'd be good!!!

Omg considering builds seem to be quiet a lot of $$$ =( DAM

where did u get ur hybird one from mate?? Did it make okay power tooo??

Sooo like if I did get mine re/built what kind of power wuld a upgrade stock turbo put out?

thanks Gaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3353530
Share on other sites
Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey garry!

just remember that if you go after market turbo, or even hiflow, running an engine management system of some kind would be a good idea :P

Good idea. But nowhere near essential :)

lol yeah ... TRU TRU

but i dont wanna run not much more power, say even if i get to 300RWHP i'd be happy with that!!

i dunno wat the problem is, but didnt smoke dismorning or going to work at all... could be pcv needs a clean + pipes!!

still a new turbo / re/build wuld be good 2 :rofl: just need a good place 2 get it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3354389
Share on other sites
R32 Driver Mentor

R32 Driver

Posted
Posted

cheapest option is a KKR 430 or 480 (laggy) turbo $700-800 with custom dump $170 otomoto.com.au

2.2k will get you a HKS GT RS

Buy a R34 turbo ~$450 and u can hi-flow it $1.3k and it will support 360/370rwhp

but at that stage you will need a fair few more supporting mods

i suggest the Jay Car electronic boost controller kit ($80) to control boost or a TurboTech from ebay $29

a Apexi SAFC 2nd hand will be $250-300 and this will net you alottttttt of your power

I mean a R34 turbo will support 280rwhp with everything lining up eg manifold, water, oil lines

and if u want more power after that u can hi flow it, it has a larger rear housing (same as the VG30) so it will support more power then a Hi-Flow R33 turbo

I suggest getting a dump/front pipe too

3inch turbo Exhaust

Front Mounted Intercooler

pod filter

Manual/Electronic boost control

Safc <---------- makes alot of the power with a good tune

Fuel pump (if you wanna play it safe)

will net you 280rwhp+

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3356041
Share on other sites
7yphon Experienced

7yphon

Posted
Posted

I got the turbo from Jshop at the time, Not sure if he can get another one for that price but yer it was a ausome bargen, my sig tell the story.

On a R33 you wouldnt need to change you ECU as the Hybrid is a mix of 32rear housing "Quick spool times" and the R33 intake, But it was BB and from what I was told could support up to 25PSI

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3356946
Share on other sites
ceffyboy Community Regular

ceffyboy

Posted
Posted
My 32 turbo blew the seals so i decided to get it rebuilt.

I went to MTQ in malaga 63 beringarra ave PH:9209 1677

I got new seals, steel wheels, and high flowed for $1320inc gst

hey mate wen u got that done did u just take the turbo in or did they take it of the car and do it for ya?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3357410
Share on other sites
Daniel R32 Experienced

Daniel R32

Posted
Posted
hey mate wen u got that done did u just take the turbo in or did they take it of the car and do it for ya?

I took it off my self, they only repair/rebuild or get new ones in they dont actuallt take them off the car for you.

Also forgot to add the turbo is now running a standard 10 psi with out a boost controller, can only go up now haha :P (with a controler)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3357539
Share on other sites
Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah morlock,

i dunno what it is... took plugs out and all where good dry and grey!!! the only 1 that worries me is the

number #6 cyclinder had a very white tip, but looked in very good condition !!! isnt that a sign of lean mixture? overheating in that chamber?

i dont knw if its the turbo now...

>< argh

well if u wanna read on about my drama its below :D all opinions considered

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=185198

GaZZa

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185296-turbos/#findComment-3360336
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...