Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just got hold of an intercooler off an F6 Typhoon.... Would this be a suitable upgrade for an RB25DET? Was keen on this because it's got the piping returning to the same side as the inlet, so I was hoping to use much of the factory piping. Anyone know the dimensions etc of these coolers (It's in the post so I can't measure it).

Thanks, Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185344-ford-fpv-intercooler/
Share on other sites

You probably should have checked out the dimensions and whether it would be a decent upgrade *before* you bought it... :yucky:

Id assume itd be better than the stock RB25 cooler though, not sure how much of the stock piping youll be able to use though, Im sure youll need at least some custom piping made up to reach it.

Yeah prob should have, but it only cost me a bit over $100.... Some piping will have to be made up, I just didn't want to go cutting any holes in the engine bay. Here's a pic of it anyway.

post-29840-1189994111_thumb.jpg

The xr6tubo/typhoon coolers are pretty good flowing coolers.

Most of the XR6turbos run minimum 248rwkw on stock intercooler with no issues, so I don't see why it would not work for your applications.

Only issue now is custom piping.

Rotate and mount the cooler this way if your facing the front of the car. (picture attached)

Basically you could set the piping up like a return flow setup.

Leave the piping stock in the engine bay as it runs in to the guard, take the stock cooler out and making the piping from the cooler join onto the exiting piping from there.

Hope that makes sense.

post-11894-1189996505_thumb.jpg

Edited by abu
but then the pipes are angling forwards not back towards the engine?

It could work though.

not if you just spin in 180 degrees, not actually turn it over.

Just look at the picture I attached a few posts up.

Edited by abu

it would still be less work (and money) then fitting a hybrid style cooler, and less money than a cooler kit that uses the stock piping.

i don't think it perform that differently to some of the apexi coolers that i have seen on 33's.

$100 = bargain.

considering an R34 SMIC usually goes for about $150

cusotm piping might wet you back $50 - $100 max.

this setup would easily cool what the stock turbo could push out and probably in to the 250rwkw type figures.

Edited by GTST

Will let you all know how it goes.... even if it costs $200 to get it all set up and fitted, as Mad082 said, will still be cheaper than any front mount kit I've seen, and I shouldn't have to cut any metal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...