Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi , I have 33 with FMIC exhaust , hks pod, apexi neo AFC and putting in a Electronic boost controller . I was wondering where i can take it for dyno tuning in and around the brisbane area and does anyone have an idea of how much it will cost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185722-dyno-tuning-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

another tick for godzilla motorsport

have been to a number of tuners, and godzilla have been the stand out of them all and specializes in PFC and other aftermarket ecus. Tunes are performed with laptop software ( none of this handheld shit) to get the ultimate tune right through the rev range.

proof: Mark's 1000hp 8 sec r32 gtr. obviously shows that mark knows his shit and knows what hes doing.

do yourself a favour and do these first.

new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm

new oil

new oil filter.

if you have stock coils, tape them up good with electrical tape.

the cost always ends up higher than what is quoted because you increase boost and power and you find the spark gives up and you hit missfire issues.

so unless you have split fire coils already, and don't want to spend $500+ on them or get the shits when you book in for a tune and they can't do it cause of spark issues, do the above first.

then they will only charge you for the install/tune.

got the quote today he said $500 with my basic mods, turbo back exhaust, 12psi boost, R34 cooler, pod, which seems pretty good

sparkies already gapped at 0.8, coils removed and refitted with high temp silicone (was getting miss firing at 10 psi, had heaps of coils cracks) , hmmm oil has only done a few thousand clicks should probably change it I guess but that depends on level of motivation.

400KW is #$%^%^ crazy!!!

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

not sure, but it could just be the same time to tune... my old tuner who was an autronic specialist in sydney did mine within a reasonable time, same time as the power fc i had before. they probs just have a flat rate for tuning, as my old tuner did no matter what ecu... either way you'll be satisfied with the results, and its not that much considering they know hands down what they are doin i spose

hehe yeh 400 is fun, were gonna have it tuned up again just before jambo get around 450 out of it... got the gtr rear end going in now

ben...

Edited by 2BNVS
  • 3 weeks later...

I just moved in to tingalpa; so there are like 3 min away, wonder who much its going to cost to do the following,

Front mount (already got from crashed R33, with piping)

Dump / Front pipe

Hi / Low Boost setting - Dont want to spend on ECU still

Still running Nissan Coil pack though..

do yourself a favour and do these first.

new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm

new oil

new oil filter.

if you have stock coils, tape them up good with electrical tape.

the cost always ends up higher than what is quoted because you increase boost and power and you find the spark gives up and you hit missfire issues.

so unless you have split fire coils already, and don't want to spend $500+ on them or get the shits when you book in for a tune and they can't do it cause of spark issues, do the above first.

then they will only charge you for the install/tune.

i have stock coils and i didnt need to tape them up lol, when changing plugs the .8 gap is a good idea but u also want to go to a colder temp range. or was that hotter :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...