Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^ yup i have read the same thing too..

I wouldnt be concerned about cam gears esp with all your other supporting mods.

Which tomie cams did you buy. As in what lift?

Awesome, good to hear.

Bought the Poncams - 256 I believe.

Cheers

ABO BOB

So you're making 270rwkw with stock injectors and stock FPR? Surely that's impossible.

What turbo is it?

What MPH did you get at the drags if you've been?

Yes 269rwkw stock FPR and stock injectors - confirmed on two dynos. If you have another place you are 100% on dyno accuracy I would be more than happy to get a print out from there.

Turbo is custom Garrett, unsure of specs, I forgot what they told me went into it.

Car has not gone to the drags yet.

Thanks

If your making the same power on a rolling road dyno as that of a hub dyno then the rolling road dyno is most definitely reading high.

Its well known hub dyno's read higher than the usual rolling road dyno; if its not then somethings up with that rolling road dyno. :dry:

The local hub dyno here has said 30-40rwkw higher from a hub dyno is the norm. I'll soon to be running up on it so I can crack that 300rwkw lmao.

If your making the same power on a rolling road dyno as that of a hub dyno then the rolling road dyno is most definitely reading high.

Its well known hub dyno's read higher than the usual rolling road dyno; if its not then somethings up with that rolling road dyno. :dry:

The local hub dyno here has said 30-40rwkw higher from a hub dyno is the norm. I'll soon to be running up on it so I can crack that 300rwkw lmao.

calm down joel

you know that wont count.....

i wanna see 400kws out of your car on BW dyno.

no excuses....

If your making the same power on a rolling road dyno as that of a hub dyno then the rolling road dyno is most definitely reading high.

Its well known hub dyno's read higher than the usual rolling road dyno; if its not then somethings up with that rolling road dyno. :dry:

The local hub dyno here has said 30-40rwkw higher from a hub dyno is the norm. I'll soon to be running up on it so I can crack that 300rwkw lmao.

Interesting, there was only 10rwkw difference between the two (roller dyno read slightly less - but then we did a few more tunes, advanced more timing and now it makes a bit more than the roller dyno did).

I doubt taking 30-40rwkw off the hub dyno will give me a roller dyno reading (that means it would only be 240rwkw). I thought it only made a significant difference when the power became substantial and the roller starts to slip a lot.

Maybe I will check it on a third dyno - another roller dyno.

Cheers

hahahah... Sorted those 'boost leaks' yet Darren? :whoops:

not yet.

ive been looking but unable to find anything sus.

my next plan was to poke a air compressor nozzle into a vacum line on the manifold and crank 30 psi into it with my hand over the afm. see what happens.

under vacum it doesnt leak, so im guessing its a silicon joiner that only opens up under boost.

Trooper, are you in WA running a wolf :whoops:

I'm sorry to say, but I find 270 rwkw a little bit out there for stock injectors and stock fpr.

At 200rwkw I was hitting 90%+ injectors.

Changed to bigger and with the 250rwkw I'm about 80%

something fishy going on.......

BASS OUT

Well whose to say what's accurate and what's not. I've had variations of 30-40kw within days, each dyno operator telling me their dyno was perfect. What boost are you running atm? Anything else you can tell us about the turbo? See if there is a little plate on it somewhere.

Well whose to say what's accurate and what's not. I've had variations of 30-40kw within days, each dyno operator telling me their dyno was perfect. What boost are you running atm? Anything else you can tell us about the turbo? See if there is a little plate on it somewhere.

yeah dyno's are gay, they bend everyone over!

Well whose to say what's accurate and what's not. I've had variations of 30-40kw within days, each dyno operator telling me their dyno was perfect. What boost are you running atm? Anything else you can tell us about the turbo? See if there is a little plate on it somewhere.

Garrett have had the car and took it to PAC racing, I have a VERY good friend at Garrett and he assured me that the figures given were very accurate - because they asked PAC to do some 'tests' for product development. I just assumed that a drag team would have a fairly accurate dyno. But I am not too concerned with numbers - the power delivery is awesome and it spins the 255's in 3rd, and hits full boost by 3.2k

Running about 17psi, unfortunately I cant tell you specs on the turbo - Garrett were going to market it but the parts alone cost more than what they would need to price the units at to make it viable.

I know its full BB, similar to GT3071R and has surge slots and custom dump pipe to stop it from surging. There is no 'plate' with model number because it was a custom job and the only one that was made, they tested the prototype on my car and left it there for me to enjoy.

I would like to take it to any dyno shop that someone can recommend before injectors/cams go in, just to confirm the power figure with the current mods. A lot of people have called b/s on the power figure based on stocker injectors - until they have been for a ride. I know its not a pissing comp, but I would like to know the 'real' figures - i am about 90% on the ones I have got now. But what is more important is the power delivery, very streetable which is what I asked for, not peak power.

Abo Bob - where abouts in Sydney are you? Would you be interested in a catch up if you are near eastern suburbs to have a look at my 33?

Thanks

Heath

post-24130-1191327255_thumb.jpg

Trooper.

That boost curves look amazing, and for it to hold cleanly to red line like that is great.

I don't suppose you have AFR numbers?

I just have trouble with the Stock FPR and injector bits.

I have no trouble with the power and the boost, just fishy with the injectors.

This turbo you speak of..... Will they be making more, because they look like a winner to me!

Trooper.

That boost curves look amazing, and for it to hold cleanly to red line like that is great.

I don't suppose you have AFR numbers?

I just have trouble with the Stock FPR and injector bits.

I have no trouble with the power and the boost, just fishy with the injectors.

This turbo you speak of..... Will they be making more, because they look like a winner to me!

The plan was to make LOTS, the problem is the cost would more than the GCG highflow (it uses the stock comp housing - but everything else is replaced). Even though it is a very good unit, and the tuners were very impressed with the performance - very suited to a street car looking for decent power + response it was thought that everyone wants something for nothing, and even though it would bolt straight on with the custom dump pipe that was going to be supplied, people were already starging to say "well I can get a disco potato for $xxxx why would I spend a bit more for just a highflow unit..

It is a really big shame it will not go into production, but I am glad that I have the only one, at least I have something unique on a very un-unique car ;)

I think the cost including custom dump pipe to fit (as the housing was slightly rotated) was going to be about the $2k mark - people do not seem to see the value of buying something that is definately going to fit, and proven to perform. The workshop I use say they have so many people buy cheap turbos, cheap dump pipes and end up spending more than that due to the fitting costs - and at the end of the day have an inferior product.

I am very happy with the turbo, after the cams go in the next stage is to make the car look a bit pretty again - starting to look a little tired on the outside, just needs a really good detail, new side skirts and new rims - or fix the scratches in the ones I have now.

Thanks

See you tonight Adam (if you get my PM in time)

When you get up to Cairns you will have to take me for a spin.

It will be easy now we work at the same place

Haha yeh no worries Ben, congrats on the job - they seem like a really good bunch to work with , I cant wait to get started up there. Finish exams November 27 (57 days) and fly up on December 01.

Hope yours is still going strong!!

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...