Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys just wanted your opinion. Ive been looking at some of the ECU postings and Ive been reading people discussing how the Power FC is old technology. What you guys think?

Old Yes.....But Still Effective, Just misses out on some of the Newer stuff available today suck as anti-lag, Ignition cut, Multiple maps ect.

But gains with its plug and play factory style management.....ie You can plug it in and drive.....no need to worry about light load maps, cold start etc.

I swear By mine (R33 GTS-t)

Yeah if they were never discontinued all this talk about PFC being outdated wouldn't have come about.

Its because they're no longer the cheapest and most effective option for its price that its been labeled old and outdated.

Honestly if you could still buy them for $900 odd dollars, would you still say its not a good option? Would you still say get an EMU over a PFC? Some will say yes, but I know plenty would say no.

For the price the discontinued ones go for now, you can pick up later and greater ECU's with more options than you can poke a stick at.

But its time to move on, just accept they're not any longer a very feasible option and you can get something else that will fill your needs anyway for the same price.

But if you can pick one up for a reasonable price then I'd say jump at it. If not don't worry about it and get an EMU.

I bought a PFC just after they were discontinued, got it just as their prices started to rise. It wasn't cheap, but not overly expensive either. I don't regret buying it.

Edited by KeyMaker

"Old" and "outdated" are two different things. Internal combustion's no spring chicken either, but its not like an electric motor going to replace it in a production capacity in the near future. With crude oil "running out", most of the effort to resolve this issue is still going into changing what goes into an internal combustion engine, not the method it converts stored energy into kinetic energy.

The only thing people don't like about the PowerFC, as an entry level "plug & play" ECU, against more modern offerings is an inability to store/load multiple maps within the ECU itself. However, if A'PEXi were to release a new version it wouldn't be a massive step to integrate such functionality. Some memory and a switch / menu for the hand controller would be all that's required.

I hope A'PEXi (or someone else) does replace the discontinued PowerFC, with that extra functionality (and a ECU for the VQ series engines).

Well you can still get a PFC for $900 for a RB26

So IMO they still hold their weight.

The fact it comes with a base tune is also a winner.

Other ECU's might have launch control, or some other feature. But honestly, when are you going to use it in a street car?

Plus we are talking cars 10+ years old now.

As Ash said... Its an excellent option for a street car.

It cold starts, warm starts, idle's, cruises and operates the a/c like a factory ecu.

I wouldn't consider it 'outdated' as it still offers features that only the top end ecu's worth more than 2x its price do.

6x injector drivers (Sequential Injection!), 6 x coil drivers, overrun fuel cut, closed loop o2 control just to name a few. :thumbsup:

Most importantly it just works. Which results in cheaper tuning costs that tuners 'should' be passing on to their customers.

It cold starts, warm starts, idle's, cruises and operates the a/c like a factory ecu.

I wouldn't consider it 'outdated' as it still offers features that only the top end ecu's worth more than 2x its price do.

6x injector drivers (Sequential Injection!), 6 x coil drivers, overrun fuel cut, closed loop o2 control just to name a few. :thumbsup:

100% agreed. for a plug n play to do all these things, it should be highly recommended

I have a POWER FC in my car..and I really don;t know exactly what it does..but is a...MUST. Hmmm hate to disapoint you but we have the same combustion engine since 1800... still I love my line...don't you?????

Cheers,

eug.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...