Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've just spent some coin on getting my gearbox rebuilt for my R33 turbs.... I'm about to put it in and was wanting to know if anyone has any thoughts on what oil is best to throw in there when I engage the gears for the first time.

Thanks in advance....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/
Share on other sites

Redline,shockproof :thumbsup: thats the shit man!

Yeah, that is good stuff... I was just making sure that it's still the best stuff to use for a new box as I tend to hear of people using it when their gearboxes get lazy syncros....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366098
Share on other sites

Yeah, that is good stuff... I was just making sure that it's still the best stuff to use for a new box as I tend to hear of people using it when their gearboxes get lazy syncros....

Stuart, do yourself and your box a favor by NOT using redline shockproof in it it is NOT designed for use in synchro gearboxes and is only beneficial in worn gearboxes.

have a read they clearly state this

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366105
Share on other sites

Redline make the MT90 manual GB oil...I have been using that with no dramas, Its been shifting quite well once its done a few thou Kms.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=7

Castrol Syntrans is good too....but I use redline in engine, gb and diff cos I like them.

I'm not a fan of the Shockproof for the GB either generally becuase its a GEAR oil and has too many friction modifiers in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366694
Share on other sites

i use 75/90 in mine. wat did your gearbox rebuilder recommend to use?

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3367124
Share on other sites

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

I wouldnt even use redline in one with a worn box. My GTR had it. Bloody awful stuff. As soon as they flushed it out and stuck in a mineral oil (not sure what type), most of my shifts were much smoother...besides the redline stuff looks like pureed smurf. Pureed smurf cant be good for any gearbox..

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3367140
Share on other sites

VMX80 and Syntrans have suitbale friction modifers to make your shifts go well, proven time and time again. I find the combination used in the Redline MT90 better, with better sheer ratings since its not replaced often, I go the better oil.

as for the Nulon G70, never used it myself as I firmly believe in buying an oil Oil with the appropiate addiatives included.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3368433
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...