Jump to content
SAU Community

New Gearbox Oil?


stuartlaw_78
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've just spent some coin on getting my gearbox rebuilt for my R33 turbs.... I'm about to put it in and was wanting to know if anyone has any thoughts on what oil is best to throw in there when I engage the gears for the first time.

Thanks in advance....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, that is good stuff... I was just making sure that it's still the best stuff to use for a new box as I tend to hear of people using it when their gearboxes get lazy syncros....

Stuart, do yourself and your box a favor by NOT using redline shockproof in it it is NOT designed for use in synchro gearboxes and is only beneficial in worn gearboxes.

have a read they clearly state this

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Redline make the MT90 manual GB oil...I have been using that with no dramas, Its been shifting quite well once its done a few thou Kms.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=7

Castrol Syntrans is good too....but I use redline in engine, gb and diff cos I like them.

I'm not a fan of the Shockproof for the GB either generally becuase its a GEAR oil and has too many friction modifiers in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i use 75/90 in mine. wat did your gearbox rebuilder recommend to use?

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

I wouldnt even use redline in one with a worn box. My GTR had it. Bloody awful stuff. As soon as they flushed it out and stuck in a mineral oil (not sure what type), most of my shifts were much smoother...besides the redline stuff looks like pureed smurf. Pureed smurf cant be good for any gearbox..

-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats what I've ran in the past.

Worked extremely well as it quietened down the input shaft bearing noise in my original box some how; didn't stop it from ripping teeth off third gear though. Only my right foot could do that. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VMX80 and Syntrans have suitbale friction modifers to make your shifts go well, proven time and time again. I find the combination used in the Redline MT90 better, with better sheer ratings since its not replaced often, I go the better oil.

as for the Nulon G70, never used it myself as I firmly believe in buying an oil Oil with the appropiate addiatives included.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hey GTSboy thanks for the quick reply. im on stock ECU  Surprisngly enough i unplug everything and replug everything, readings are still off but the car drove...ok haha So far this is what i have done. - Replaced ECU (still 1.5v) - Replaced Boost sensor (still 1.5v) Now the next thing i tried is to unplug the TPS and only plug in the Boost sensor to see if it reads 5v. No it still only read 1.5v.  Its a new boost sensor and i know i have 5v if i dont plug the sensor back in, so that means the power wire is good. So now im thinking that it might be a bad ground on the boost sensor plug.  on the FSM says the ground to the boost sensor is  a sensor ground, can i add a ground wire from the boost sensor ground wire to the the engine itself to ground it? or chassis?
    • OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
×
×
  • Create New...