Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've just spent some coin on getting my gearbox rebuilt for my R33 turbs.... I'm about to put it in and was wanting to know if anyone has any thoughts on what oil is best to throw in there when I engage the gears for the first time.

Thanks in advance....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/
Share on other sites

Redline,shockproof :thumbsup: thats the shit man!

Yeah, that is good stuff... I was just making sure that it's still the best stuff to use for a new box as I tend to hear of people using it when their gearboxes get lazy syncros....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366098
Share on other sites

Yeah, that is good stuff... I was just making sure that it's still the best stuff to use for a new box as I tend to hear of people using it when their gearboxes get lazy syncros....

Stuart, do yourself and your box a favor by NOT using redline shockproof in it it is NOT designed for use in synchro gearboxes and is only beneficial in worn gearboxes.

have a read they clearly state this

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366105
Share on other sites

Redline make the MT90 manual GB oil...I have been using that with no dramas, Its been shifting quite well once its done a few thou Kms.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=7

Castrol Syntrans is good too....but I use redline in engine, gb and diff cos I like them.

I'm not a fan of the Shockproof for the GB either generally becuase its a GEAR oil and has too many friction modifiers in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3366694
Share on other sites

i use 75/90 in mine. wat did your gearbox rebuilder recommend to use?

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3367124
Share on other sites

Stupid me forgot to ask them and I will be asking them on Monday but thought that I'd find out some info from my fellow Skyline owners...

I def won't be using the Redline shockproof after reading about the product. It is certainly meant for worn gearboxes and not boxes with new gears and syncros in them.... Be careful with your choices people.....

I wouldnt even use redline in one with a worn box. My GTR had it. Bloody awful stuff. As soon as they flushed it out and stuck in a mineral oil (not sure what type), most of my shifts were much smoother...besides the redline stuff looks like pureed smurf. Pureed smurf cant be good for any gearbox..

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3367140
Share on other sites

VMX80 and Syntrans have suitbale friction modifers to make your shifts go well, proven time and time again. I find the combination used in the Redline MT90 better, with better sheer ratings since its not replaced often, I go the better oil.

as for the Nulon G70, never used it myself as I firmly believe in buying an oil Oil with the appropiate addiatives included.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186111-new-gearbox-oil/#findComment-3368433
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...